Paso Robles, California

August 24, 2009

“Napa is for car parts, Paso is for wine!” so goes the saying in this central coast town. We read several figures from 180 to over 300 vineyards in the area, each with a tasting room. Where to begin?

Hwy 46 is the primary artery for vineyards. Go east or west from town and you will see at least 3 establishments at every turn. We chose to travel west on 46 because it is the most scenic and there is no road construction. Some wine tasting rooms require a fee of anywhere from $3 to $10 and/or a purchase of wine, many bottles have a starting price around $30. This is a little pricey for confirmed “box drinkers” like us. We headed to the Rotta Vineyard because their prices are more reasonable and they are the oldest family owned vineyard in the area, founded in 1908. A wonderful lady was serving up wine and fun. Gail is a self-defined “storm of a bartender.” We worked our way through 11 “pours” tasting white, reds and desserts while visiting with other folks at the bar. We met the owner, Mike Guibbini, grandson of the original owner. Mike helped with the larger than expected Thursday afternoon crowd. We had no trouble selecting the cabernet for purchase.

While in Paso, we took a day-trip to Hearst Castle. Although Russell is not big into house tours, Hearst has enough features to impress even the most reluctant husband. Built when WRH was approaching 60, The Enchanted Hill is the culmination of a lifetime of travel and collecting. He and architect Julia Morgan spared no expense to get it right. The setting, multiple buildings and furnishings are all designed to enhance one another and create the desired atmosphere, party. I had read Marion Davies autobiography and knew of the glittering array of personalities to attend events during the 1920’s through 1940’s. Davies, an actress, was Hearst’s mistress and lady of the house. Mrs. Hearst was rarely at the castle, preferring her New York home. You have to wonder how this arrangement impacted Hearst’s relationship with his 5 sons.

One evening we enjoyed a concert at the Paso Robles city park. A large group gathered to picnic and listen to swing, complete with a Zoot-Suited singer. Many danced but most just enjoyed the wonderful music and whatever was in the cooler. It was a relaxing, if very warm evening.

Daytime temperatures are over 100 degrees in Paso in August, great reason to move on to the next town.