July, 2009
Finally! This is the city in America I have most wanted to visit, and now I have. Amazing!
We got settled in Marin County at the Marin RV Park, chosen for its location. There is a pedestrian bridge along side the 101 for a 10 minute walk to the Larkspur Ferry. Another pedestrian bridge crossed the 101 to get to a bus stop for a drive across Golden Gate Bridge. Take a path under 101 to bike/walk to Larkspur and Corte Madera. I loved being able to walk to Trader Joe’s for groceries and step out the back of the park to be looking at a marsh and bay. We could even walk to an up-scale shopping center. We could not have had a sweeter location!
We spent a month. We traveled to S.F. at least once each week, never taking the dually. We enjoyed several walks along the Embarcadero and Fisherman’s Wharf, through Chinatown, Russian Hill, up to Coit Tower and even a trek to the groovy corner of Haight-Ashbury (not as much love as there must have been in the ‘60’s). A tour bus ride took us through the highlights of the city including Alamo Park and the Presidio. One day we bought a bus pass and hopped on and off at will, covering a lot of the city that way. Another mode of transport, we rode the historic Cable Car. We walked Lombardi St., both up and down the curviest street in the world. We took in the sights, sounds and smells of the city, walking for miles.
Several people recommended that we book the Alcatraz tour in advance, thank you all so much. We went on a Friday morning, important because this is one of only two garden tours offered all week. What a treat. It seems that the gardens were an important part of life for the island inhabitants. We also got to walk through the military officer quarters ruins and several other “off limits” areas. Dedicated volunteers are restoring the flower gardens to their original beauty using old photos for accuracy. The island has a rich history that extends far beyond its 29 years as a prison. Then we took the best audio tour I’ve ever experienced through the prison. Former guards and prisoners talk to you as you are directed through the rooms, halls and cells. Sound effects enhance the visual experience to help a visitor feel the despair of entering this prison.
One place I had to see in Marin Co. is Muir Wood. We were incredibly close, but it was still quite a long trip on a narrow, winding road. The trees defy description. How do you define Tall? Majestic? This is an island of trees in this otherwise densely populated county. These trees were big when Columbus landed. We had never before seen anything like these trees, and we were properly awed.
We spent an entire day on the USS Hornet, our first experience of an air craft carrier. In addition to the self-guided trip, we took a docent-led tour to the engine room and other below-decks areas unavailable otherwise. Another docent tour takes you up to the island; the tower of rooms for piloting the ship and its aircraft. Russell expected to be amazed, I had not.
We took a very cool trip to Berkeley to research an old address. Russell’s mom had lived here when his dad was serving in the Navy during World War II. We headed to the public library and surprisingly found phone books from 1943 and 1946. She was listed in both. There was enough information given to help us feel confident that we had found 2 different locations. We got a map and drove to each. This was so cool! We took pictures of beautiful homes that easily fit the bill in hopes that she could remember, but that didn’t happen. I know that she appreciated us doing it and we enjoyed the personalized experience. While in Berkeley, we went to the University of California. Russell wore his University of Texas shirt and hat for the walk on campus. Except for all those towering eucalyptus trees, we could have been at the UT campus. The similarity of architecture is amazing, and I think other similarities exist that we didn’t take time to learn.
One day we rode in together, parting at Golden Gate. Russell enjoyed the Maritime Ship pier while I took in art. I loved the deYoung Art Museum. An amazing Aztec tunic of bird feathers took my breath. I thought they would have decayed ages ago. The glass exhibits also caught my eye because I had never seen such exquisite glass castings. After a trip up to the observation tower at de Young, I also enjoyed a trek through some of the gardens of Golden Gate Park. I rode home wishing there was more time for more art museums. I arrived home to find that Russell had been to the grocery store and was cooking steaks. What a great day!
As usual, we had our usual work days and often didn’t leave the park except for a nearby walk. I made great strides in the quilt I was making for Kyle’s birthday, which was coming fast. Russell always works on the stock market and has other business to take care of. We drove to several nearby cities and towns, walked, shopped and ate. Our trip to San Francisco was a rousing success.
NEXT TIME: California Palace of Legion of Honor, the Olympic Club area, the Winchester House in San Jose and other points south of town
Monday, November 9, 2009
Redding, CA
July 14, 2009
Moving on toward San Francisco, again faced with the dilemma of which road to take. We had continued reservations about the scenic coastal route and opted for I-5 through the center of the state. The terrain changed from rolling to plains and high desert until Mt. Shasta. This snow laden volcano dominates an otherwise bland landscape. It appears to be lost, an outcast o f the Pacific-Rim Volcano family. But she stands quite confident in her isolation. Shasta Lake is the next landmark on the way to Redding. The blueness of the quiet lake stands out against orange shores. The high tree line shows water levels to be quite low.
Redding is a nice surprise after all the people who asked, “Redding? Why?” It is the largest city of northern California and sits on the Sacramento River. Our campground, Mountain Gate RV, is nicely situated between the lake and town. The grounds are spacious and nicely landscaped. We did experience our first hot weather of the summer. Cool mornings give way to temps of 100°+. The temperature variance within the day is about 40° - so not Dallas where August temps very from 85-105°. This provides no relief, but it does get swimming pools warm. I just can’t bring myself to stay in these cold pools.
The Chamber of Commerce star is the architecturally unique pedestrian Sun Bridge that spans the Sacramento River and connects the science museum to a bike/hike path and numerous city parks. The well-traveled paths run along both side of the river. Ultimately the true adventurer will be able to pedal from town to the dam, about 20 miles. We took 2 trips, the first, a short run from Caldwell Park east to the Sun Bridge and marshes. The longer loop we began at the park, through neighborhoods, and west of town to the Ribbon Bridge, also for pedestrians. This system is by far the longest most user-friendly we have encountered. We could have had a different bike ride every morning of our stay. There is very little interaction with car traffic and the path is well maintained paving. One really cool pedestrian bridge is an old one that stands proudly next to its larger replacement road for cars. How wonderful that this small graceful path is as useful and traveled at the end of its life as in the beginning.
Two below ground trips to Lake Shasta seemed perfect for hot afternoons. The dam tour displays a marvel of civil engineering and the tallest in the USA. We traveled by elevator to an observation level, deep inside near-solid concrete. The tour hallway leads to a room on river level where the info continues with a video showing construction and a tribute to its builders. The primary function of the dam is water control and supply, it is a secondary source on California’s electric grid. As low as the water level was, locals were excited at the amount it had raised over the previous year. Conservation is their primary focus and they were not worried about the ability to provide the amount of water needed for summer. We learned that is 25% of California receives 75% of the state’s precipitation.
Our second Shasta Lake adventure took us on a very curvy descent to the shores north of the dam. The Shasta Caverns offers a package tour. The first part is the roller coaster trip to the visitor center-the curvy road trip. Second is a nice warm hike to the pontoon boat for the third segment, crossing the lake. Fourth is a bus trip back up a different mountain to the cavern rooms with chambers stacked atop each other which are quite nice, but not so different from others we’ve seen. Coming into the light we saw how much climbing we did inside. We descended stair steps back to the bus. This was a cordial group of folks - with celebrities! The young twins from “Cheaper by the Dozen” are now about 12 and created quite a stir. I was more fascinated by our tour guide. She was a ringer for a girl I grew up with who currently has many kids and grands in Idaho. I hinted at a relationship, but she didn’t bite. Oh Well.
NEXT TIME: a cooler time of year to take advantage of the bike rides
Moving on toward San Francisco, again faced with the dilemma of which road to take. We had continued reservations about the scenic coastal route and opted for I-5 through the center of the state. The terrain changed from rolling to plains and high desert until Mt. Shasta. This snow laden volcano dominates an otherwise bland landscape. It appears to be lost, an outcast o f the Pacific-Rim Volcano family. But she stands quite confident in her isolation. Shasta Lake is the next landmark on the way to Redding. The blueness of the quiet lake stands out against orange shores. The high tree line shows water levels to be quite low.
Redding is a nice surprise after all the people who asked, “Redding? Why?” It is the largest city of northern California and sits on the Sacramento River. Our campground, Mountain Gate RV, is nicely situated between the lake and town. The grounds are spacious and nicely landscaped. We did experience our first hot weather of the summer. Cool mornings give way to temps of 100°+. The temperature variance within the day is about 40° - so not Dallas where August temps very from 85-105°. This provides no relief, but it does get swimming pools warm. I just can’t bring myself to stay in these cold pools.
The Chamber of Commerce star is the architecturally unique pedestrian Sun Bridge that spans the Sacramento River and connects the science museum to a bike/hike path and numerous city parks. The well-traveled paths run along both side of the river. Ultimately the true adventurer will be able to pedal from town to the dam, about 20 miles. We took 2 trips, the first, a short run from Caldwell Park east to the Sun Bridge and marshes. The longer loop we began at the park, through neighborhoods, and west of town to the Ribbon Bridge, also for pedestrians. This system is by far the longest most user-friendly we have encountered. We could have had a different bike ride every morning of our stay. There is very little interaction with car traffic and the path is well maintained paving. One really cool pedestrian bridge is an old one that stands proudly next to its larger replacement road for cars. How wonderful that this small graceful path is as useful and traveled at the end of its life as in the beginning.
Two below ground trips to Lake Shasta seemed perfect for hot afternoons. The dam tour displays a marvel of civil engineering and the tallest in the USA. We traveled by elevator to an observation level, deep inside near-solid concrete. The tour hallway leads to a room on river level where the info continues with a video showing construction and a tribute to its builders. The primary function of the dam is water control and supply, it is a secondary source on California’s electric grid. As low as the water level was, locals were excited at the amount it had raised over the previous year. Conservation is their primary focus and they were not worried about the ability to provide the amount of water needed for summer. We learned that is 25% of California receives 75% of the state’s precipitation.
Our second Shasta Lake adventure took us on a very curvy descent to the shores north of the dam. The Shasta Caverns offers a package tour. The first part is the roller coaster trip to the visitor center-the curvy road trip. Second is a nice warm hike to the pontoon boat for the third segment, crossing the lake. Fourth is a bus trip back up a different mountain to the cavern rooms with chambers stacked atop each other which are quite nice, but not so different from others we’ve seen. Coming into the light we saw how much climbing we did inside. We descended stair steps back to the bus. This was a cordial group of folks - with celebrities! The young twins from “Cheaper by the Dozen” are now about 12 and created quite a stir. I was more fascinated by our tour guide. She was a ringer for a girl I grew up with who currently has many kids and grands in Idaho. I hinted at a relationship, but she didn’t bite. Oh Well.
NEXT TIME: a cooler time of year to take advantage of the bike rides
Crater Lake and Prospect, Oregon
July 8, 2009
The Prospect RV Park is 25 miles southwest of Crater Lake and right next to the Rogue River. We set out for some major geezer-type hiking. These forests are mixed pine and deciduous trees. We kept spotting a tree that in Texas I would call Manzanita, only huge. It has the distinctive pink/red trunk with papery peeling bark. To the internet. It’s a relative, the Pacific Coast Madrone.
We spent a lot of time along the Rogue River and finally got to go fishing. It took a bit, but Russell caught 5 very nice rainbow trout for the grill. YUM! Jean, one of our neighbors, came over for inspection, “You guys are NOT camping!” This may have been a complement. We did have a nice spread of fish, Caesar salad, table cloth, but no china on the park table.
We met several very nice neighbors. There was Jerry and Jeri, a nearly retired couple who are approaching full time RVing. What fun to feel like experts! Jean and Dave spend every summer at this park and provided a wealth of information about the area. We also enjoyed the managers, full timers who had even spent time at Buckhorn in Kerrville.
I have to say more about the Rogue. We hiked along the shore from both east and west on different days. We were driving on the main highway when we happened on the Rogue Gorge, a lovely cascade of white water that drops several layers over, around and through lave, and more lava tubes. Further down river is a lava tube in the river path that forms a natural bridge. We approached it expecting some arching structure over head. What we found was more lava beds with water rushing through the middle forming an underground river for that stretch of about 10 yards. The tame water entering the passage explodes into a grotto on the opposite side. It’s an amazing blend and crash of forces. At the Gorge, we met the living tree stump. This 2-3 foot remains of logging has been supported through the root system of this tree family. It has no leaves or branches, but it has grown bark over the ax scar, forming a living skin. With its intersecting root system, these trees are fed by the same roots that fed other trees long gone. Would this make them even older that the Sequoias?
Crater Lake, oh my! The drive in is long and largely uneventful unless you think about the fact that the road is climbing a volcano. This baby was huge! Its destructive eruptions impacted the entire continent for years, fortunately before people were here to observe the event. Multiple vents opened around the crown perimeter, stealing her steam. The resulting eruptions caused an implosion with the top of a massive crater falling inward, thereby creating a cap and sealing the vents. The unlikely series of events formed one of the few truly closed ecosystems on earth. Crater is the deepest lake in the United States and fed entirely by precipitation. No rivers or creeks flow in or out. Fish were introduced for tourists several decades ago, but that practice has stopped to allow the few native lake creatures to regain dominance. We didn’t allow enough time or energy for adequate exploring. There are several hiking trails radiating from the circumference. One trail descends to the shore where you can take a tour boat across the lake and even stop to explore the lake’s largest island. We missed the last boat of the afternoon and never got back to the park.
One day while Russell worked, I walked across Prospect to a state park. A trail leads behind a bluff to completely isolate you from the town and highway. The first set of waterfalls makes a mossy horseshoe retreat. An easy climb gets down to the beautiful clear water. The falls have a relatively short drop, but the width wraps the viewer into the scene as multiple creeks come together. It is lush and sparkling, an audio-visual with spray completing the experience. I moved on, curious about the creek’s path. A familiar rushing sound foretold the scene around the next corner. From the high bluff, creeks were rushing down bare rock, fighting for a place at the finish line. The first falls was all shelter, peace, verdant. This experience was bright, bold and hard edged. Different creeks on their way to join the Rogue. What a joy to share the scenes with Russell later in the day.
This stop is a story of trade-offs, I guess all trips are. We had a scant Crater Lake experience, but completely enjoyed the national forest and river. We may have shorted the larger, more lauded wonder, but the many small, less-traveled wonders were very worthy of the time.
NEXT TIME: Give Crater Lake its due. Diamond Lake.
The Prospect RV Park is 25 miles southwest of Crater Lake and right next to the Rogue River. We set out for some major geezer-type hiking. These forests are mixed pine and deciduous trees. We kept spotting a tree that in Texas I would call Manzanita, only huge. It has the distinctive pink/red trunk with papery peeling bark. To the internet. It’s a relative, the Pacific Coast Madrone.
We spent a lot of time along the Rogue River and finally got to go fishing. It took a bit, but Russell caught 5 very nice rainbow trout for the grill. YUM! Jean, one of our neighbors, came over for inspection, “You guys are NOT camping!” This may have been a complement. We did have a nice spread of fish, Caesar salad, table cloth, but no china on the park table.
We met several very nice neighbors. There was Jerry and Jeri, a nearly retired couple who are approaching full time RVing. What fun to feel like experts! Jean and Dave spend every summer at this park and provided a wealth of information about the area. We also enjoyed the managers, full timers who had even spent time at Buckhorn in Kerrville.
I have to say more about the Rogue. We hiked along the shore from both east and west on different days. We were driving on the main highway when we happened on the Rogue Gorge, a lovely cascade of white water that drops several layers over, around and through lave, and more lava tubes. Further down river is a lava tube in the river path that forms a natural bridge. We approached it expecting some arching structure over head. What we found was more lava beds with water rushing through the middle forming an underground river for that stretch of about 10 yards. The tame water entering the passage explodes into a grotto on the opposite side. It’s an amazing blend and crash of forces. At the Gorge, we met the living tree stump. This 2-3 foot remains of logging has been supported through the root system of this tree family. It has no leaves or branches, but it has grown bark over the ax scar, forming a living skin. With its intersecting root system, these trees are fed by the same roots that fed other trees long gone. Would this make them even older that the Sequoias?
Crater Lake, oh my! The drive in is long and largely uneventful unless you think about the fact that the road is climbing a volcano. This baby was huge! Its destructive eruptions impacted the entire continent for years, fortunately before people were here to observe the event. Multiple vents opened around the crown perimeter, stealing her steam. The resulting eruptions caused an implosion with the top of a massive crater falling inward, thereby creating a cap and sealing the vents. The unlikely series of events formed one of the few truly closed ecosystems on earth. Crater is the deepest lake in the United States and fed entirely by precipitation. No rivers or creeks flow in or out. Fish were introduced for tourists several decades ago, but that practice has stopped to allow the few native lake creatures to regain dominance. We didn’t allow enough time or energy for adequate exploring. There are several hiking trails radiating from the circumference. One trail descends to the shore where you can take a tour boat across the lake and even stop to explore the lake’s largest island. We missed the last boat of the afternoon and never got back to the park.
One day while Russell worked, I walked across Prospect to a state park. A trail leads behind a bluff to completely isolate you from the town and highway. The first set of waterfalls makes a mossy horseshoe retreat. An easy climb gets down to the beautiful clear water. The falls have a relatively short drop, but the width wraps the viewer into the scene as multiple creeks come together. It is lush and sparkling, an audio-visual with spray completing the experience. I moved on, curious about the creek’s path. A familiar rushing sound foretold the scene around the next corner. From the high bluff, creeks were rushing down bare rock, fighting for a place at the finish line. The first falls was all shelter, peace, verdant. This experience was bright, bold and hard edged. Different creeks on their way to join the Rogue. What a joy to share the scenes with Russell later in the day.
This stop is a story of trade-offs, I guess all trips are. We had a scant Crater Lake experience, but completely enjoyed the national forest and river. We may have shorted the larger, more lauded wonder, but the many small, less-traveled wonders were very worthy of the time.
NEXT TIME: Give Crater Lake its due. Diamond Lake.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
White Salmon, Washington
July 6, 2009
In keeping with our Lewis and Clark adventure, we left Woodland for White Salmon, east of Portland on the Columbia River. There were several route options available, the most direct being to follow the freeway to Vancouver, WA then continue on WA-14, a 2-lane with who knew how many twists and turns. This road is true to the river and meanders through numerous villages. The longer route was to stay on the freeway through Vancouver and Portland to Hood River, Oregon where a bridge connects to White Salmon. Locals recommended the freeway as timelier and more scenic looking over to the Washington side. Sounded good!
We wound through the big cities uneventfully and started lapping up the view; mountains, fruit tree groves, vineyards, waterfalls, wide rushing river, all the way to Hood River, a surprisingly large town. Then there was THE BRIDGE. It absolutely must be wider than it appeared to be beyond the tollbooth. If you had to fit through the tollbooth to board the bridge, we barely made it. A logging truck was heading straight for us: “Get the mirrors in!” Only by thinking thin and not breathing did we clear all obstacles. The White Salmon RV Park is a small, but roomy, nicely landscaped individually owned business.
The Gorge Loop is the Columbia River between City of the Dales on the east and Multnomah Falls on the west. We were in the middle-perfect! A trip east on WA-14 proved that we had made the correct choice for RV travel by freeway. Our destination, Beacon Rock, is an ancient volcano core and one of the largest monoliths in the world, straight up. From the parking lot there are 2 routes, climbers–not us–go left, hikers–us–go right. We walked to the river facing side of the rock to find stairs that wound back and forth in 47 switchbacks, clinging to the face of the rock. This state park is the site of one of Lewis and Clark’s camps and was once private property. Mr. Biddle bought it in 1915 because the Army Corps of Engineers was going to use the raw material to build a nearby dam. He hired an engineer and together the men spent the next 3 years building the stairway that still exists today. He then gave the historic site to the state with the stipulation that the public never be charged for admission. And so it is. The legacy of the man stands as tall and strong as the rock he championed. The view from the top includes marshes, mountains, farm lands, and of course, the river. It has been used as a look out by all the people who traveled this route for centuries.
We next traveled the Historic Columbia River Highway in Oregon complete with stonework walls to keep travelers from dropping off! This road made the bridge look roomy, but Horsetail and Multnomah Falls virtually splash on to the road, well worth the trip. A little hiking would yield several more falls, but we were short on time. The Dalles is one of the oldest cities of the area; a trading and meeting point of Indians and later, traders. The site is named for the long stretch of rapids nearby. There is also a natural rock formation that creates a type of fort. We sacrificed seeing the town for the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and a sit-down lunch. Wish we had allotted more time for the area. We bought salmon on the way home for another delicious meal. Indians are allowed unlimited fishing rights on river, whereas all other have strict limits. Therefore, the best salmon is roadside, in coolers.
Navigation on the Columbia was once an iffy thing, with spring swells and numerous rapids. Original navigation plans included locks to bypass dangerous cataracts. Now the rapids have been flooded by the creation of dams. Interestingly, dams do not cross the entire waterway to allow for boat and salmon navigation.
It is safe to say that we needed more time, but we were due in the next location. We drove the length of Oregon, right down the middle. Farm land rolled over hills, we skirted Mt. Hood, marveled at lava fields, gasped at major ravines in the desert and arrived again in wooded mountains and another volcano, Crater Lake.
NEXT TIME: Stay Longer!
In keeping with our Lewis and Clark adventure, we left Woodland for White Salmon, east of Portland on the Columbia River. There were several route options available, the most direct being to follow the freeway to Vancouver, WA then continue on WA-14, a 2-lane with who knew how many twists and turns. This road is true to the river and meanders through numerous villages. The longer route was to stay on the freeway through Vancouver and Portland to Hood River, Oregon where a bridge connects to White Salmon. Locals recommended the freeway as timelier and more scenic looking over to the Washington side. Sounded good!
We wound through the big cities uneventfully and started lapping up the view; mountains, fruit tree groves, vineyards, waterfalls, wide rushing river, all the way to Hood River, a surprisingly large town. Then there was THE BRIDGE. It absolutely must be wider than it appeared to be beyond the tollbooth. If you had to fit through the tollbooth to board the bridge, we barely made it. A logging truck was heading straight for us: “Get the mirrors in!” Only by thinking thin and not breathing did we clear all obstacles. The White Salmon RV Park is a small, but roomy, nicely landscaped individually owned business.
The Gorge Loop is the Columbia River between City of the Dales on the east and Multnomah Falls on the west. We were in the middle-perfect! A trip east on WA-14 proved that we had made the correct choice for RV travel by freeway. Our destination, Beacon Rock, is an ancient volcano core and one of the largest monoliths in the world, straight up. From the parking lot there are 2 routes, climbers–not us–go left, hikers–us–go right. We walked to the river facing side of the rock to find stairs that wound back and forth in 47 switchbacks, clinging to the face of the rock. This state park is the site of one of Lewis and Clark’s camps and was once private property. Mr. Biddle bought it in 1915 because the Army Corps of Engineers was going to use the raw material to build a nearby dam. He hired an engineer and together the men spent the next 3 years building the stairway that still exists today. He then gave the historic site to the state with the stipulation that the public never be charged for admission. And so it is. The legacy of the man stands as tall and strong as the rock he championed. The view from the top includes marshes, mountains, farm lands, and of course, the river. It has been used as a look out by all the people who traveled this route for centuries.
We next traveled the Historic Columbia River Highway in Oregon complete with stonework walls to keep travelers from dropping off! This road made the bridge look roomy, but Horsetail and Multnomah Falls virtually splash on to the road, well worth the trip. A little hiking would yield several more falls, but we were short on time. The Dalles is one of the oldest cities of the area; a trading and meeting point of Indians and later, traders. The site is named for the long stretch of rapids nearby. There is also a natural rock formation that creates a type of fort. We sacrificed seeing the town for the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and a sit-down lunch. Wish we had allotted more time for the area. We bought salmon on the way home for another delicious meal. Indians are allowed unlimited fishing rights on river, whereas all other have strict limits. Therefore, the best salmon is roadside, in coolers.
Navigation on the Columbia was once an iffy thing, with spring swells and numerous rapids. Original navigation plans included locks to bypass dangerous cataracts. Now the rapids have been flooded by the creation of dams. Interestingly, dams do not cross the entire waterway to allow for boat and salmon navigation.
It is safe to say that we needed more time, but we were due in the next location. We drove the length of Oregon, right down the middle. Farm land rolled over hills, we skirted Mt. Hood, marveled at lava fields, gasped at major ravines in the desert and arrived again in wooded mountains and another volcano, Crater Lake.
NEXT TIME: Stay Longer!
Woodland, Washington
June 29, 2009
We spent the week of July 4th at the beautiful Columbia Riverfront RV Park on the banks of the Columbia River, near the mouth of the Lewis River. Our back window faced the river and rolling hillside on the Oregon side. Groups gathered in the evenings for bonfires on the driftwood-strewn beach.
On the 4th, we avoided all traffic and crowds by cleaning house, cooking at home, and resting up for the evening fireworks display courtesy of the RV Park owners. Campers gathered in sweaters and blankets along the beach, the driveway and at sites for the show scheduled to begin around 10:00. Each group on the beach had their own fireworks display so we had a show that filled the sky, across the park grounds shore from various sources. Not planned or orchestrated by a single entity, but varied, colorful and great fun. The very nicest part of the night was smiling and feeling the celebration on the slow walk home, no traffic or stress.
The town of Woodland is fairly sleepy, good for bike rides on the quiet streets. We found tasty, inexpensive restaurants for our salad-based diet. The farmer’s market was small, but full of local bounty. The local Visitor’s Center host was very helpful in planning our week. It is also where a small commuter van stops each weekday to take people to Portland. We had expected to see some sign of damage from the Mt. St. Helen blast of 1980, but found that the eruption went north and west. The south and east had no effects to speak of. In terms of population centers and damage this was the best of a bad situation.
We took several side trips across southern Washington. On July 3 we took our bikes to Lake Sacajawea Park (Lewis and Clark once again) in Longview, WA. The park is a city block in width and at least 4 blocks long with a bike path along the entire loop. The path even cuts under the bridges at each intersection to avoid car traffic. We made the 3.5 mile loop, admiring lovely old homes in addition to the beautiful park grounds. The reason for not riding more was a very cool Fourth of July festival. We put the bikes away and walked through the crowds to window shop.
Another day we took a trip into Portland on the commuter van. We had no plan at all except to see the city. We began in the midst of department stores and tall buildings then hiked to the largest book store in the world. What a treat! We love used book stores and Powell’s was overwhelming! Four floors of a building that covers a city block is organized by color with maps and signs all over to keep the book traveler from getting lost. We walked through various quarters of town, which really was designed in quarters. The founding fathers laid out the town with a multi-block park symmetrically placed at each compass point. Parks are shaded by large old trees, colorful with flowering beds and punctuated with statuary. We most enjoyed the museum/university area.
One highlight of our Woodland stop was a trip to Mt. St. Helen’s and another to the Lava Tubes nearby. We drove up into the mountains through fog, winding around rocky peaks, tall pines and small villages along a river. As we broke out of the fog MSH was instantly visible! No clouds, just snow covered, jagged volcano crater. Nothing less than miraculous! We stopped for pictures at an overlook of the valley and Kalama River. The usually shrouded crater was clearly visible against a blue sky. We met 2 couples from England at this stop. They were spending 6 weeks traveling the Oregon Trail. I was amazed that this bit of Americana would attract Brits. They were winding down the trip and had loved it.
We drove on to the visitor center which sits directly opposite of the crater for an ideal view. The drive from our photo stop wound through pines with small billboard-type signs from Weyerhaeuser giving the year in which the pines had been planted. The visual effect of uniformly planted pines of a uniform type was eerie. It was like perfectly horizontal lines across the forest. The closer we got, the more obvious damage was still apparent. There was very little vegetation. Everything facing the open-sided crater was gone or, like the visitor center, less than 28 years old. We arrived at eye level and I blindly took one photo after another. We were 5.5 miles away, crater and lava dome, clearly visible. My wonderful new camera had a large LED screen, great except in sunshine, at which time it becomes mostly black. I had no idea what images were captured, clearly seen when we checked it out inside. Of course by the time we went to get more pictures, clouds. So another spectacular event is in memory only.
The Johnston Ridge Visitor Center has a wonderful movie of the volcano, interactive exhibits and stories of people from the blast. All work to create sense of awe. Several hiking paths are available, but we had a long drive back and did not go far.
We went to the Lava Tubes, two words we would never have put together prior to this trip. We learned that lave tubes are a passage of lava underground. The sides in contact with the earth cool more quickly, allowing the inner lava to continue to flow and drain. After learning of their existence, we found that they are very common in volcanic areas. We donned headlights and coats for the trip down a natural entrance about midway through the tube. It was even darker than the Taft Tunnel, but mercifully we didn’t have bikes. We had a wonderful adventure on the short trip, but decided against the longer more strenuous version which stretched out in the opposite direction.
We talked about a trip to the coast, but decided to leave it for the next time through. Our stop in Woodland had been far more fun and relaxing than we had anticipated. It also taught us to plan well ahead for holidays.
NEXT TIME: Astoria
We spent the week of July 4th at the beautiful Columbia Riverfront RV Park on the banks of the Columbia River, near the mouth of the Lewis River. Our back window faced the river and rolling hillside on the Oregon side. Groups gathered in the evenings for bonfires on the driftwood-strewn beach.
On the 4th, we avoided all traffic and crowds by cleaning house, cooking at home, and resting up for the evening fireworks display courtesy of the RV Park owners. Campers gathered in sweaters and blankets along the beach, the driveway and at sites for the show scheduled to begin around 10:00. Each group on the beach had their own fireworks display so we had a show that filled the sky, across the park grounds shore from various sources. Not planned or orchestrated by a single entity, but varied, colorful and great fun. The very nicest part of the night was smiling and feeling the celebration on the slow walk home, no traffic or stress.
The town of Woodland is fairly sleepy, good for bike rides on the quiet streets. We found tasty, inexpensive restaurants for our salad-based diet. The farmer’s market was small, but full of local bounty. The local Visitor’s Center host was very helpful in planning our week. It is also where a small commuter van stops each weekday to take people to Portland. We had expected to see some sign of damage from the Mt. St. Helen blast of 1980, but found that the eruption went north and west. The south and east had no effects to speak of. In terms of population centers and damage this was the best of a bad situation.
We took several side trips across southern Washington. On July 3 we took our bikes to Lake Sacajawea Park (Lewis and Clark once again) in Longview, WA. The park is a city block in width and at least 4 blocks long with a bike path along the entire loop. The path even cuts under the bridges at each intersection to avoid car traffic. We made the 3.5 mile loop, admiring lovely old homes in addition to the beautiful park grounds. The reason for not riding more was a very cool Fourth of July festival. We put the bikes away and walked through the crowds to window shop.
Another day we took a trip into Portland on the commuter van. We had no plan at all except to see the city. We began in the midst of department stores and tall buildings then hiked to the largest book store in the world. What a treat! We love used book stores and Powell’s was overwhelming! Four floors of a building that covers a city block is organized by color with maps and signs all over to keep the book traveler from getting lost. We walked through various quarters of town, which really was designed in quarters. The founding fathers laid out the town with a multi-block park symmetrically placed at each compass point. Parks are shaded by large old trees, colorful with flowering beds and punctuated with statuary. We most enjoyed the museum/university area.
One highlight of our Woodland stop was a trip to Mt. St. Helen’s and another to the Lava Tubes nearby. We drove up into the mountains through fog, winding around rocky peaks, tall pines and small villages along a river. As we broke out of the fog MSH was instantly visible! No clouds, just snow covered, jagged volcano crater. Nothing less than miraculous! We stopped for pictures at an overlook of the valley and Kalama River. The usually shrouded crater was clearly visible against a blue sky. We met 2 couples from England at this stop. They were spending 6 weeks traveling the Oregon Trail. I was amazed that this bit of Americana would attract Brits. They were winding down the trip and had loved it.
We drove on to the visitor center which sits directly opposite of the crater for an ideal view. The drive from our photo stop wound through pines with small billboard-type signs from Weyerhaeuser giving the year in which the pines had been planted. The visual effect of uniformly planted pines of a uniform type was eerie. It was like perfectly horizontal lines across the forest. The closer we got, the more obvious damage was still apparent. There was very little vegetation. Everything facing the open-sided crater was gone or, like the visitor center, less than 28 years old. We arrived at eye level and I blindly took one photo after another. We were 5.5 miles away, crater and lava dome, clearly visible. My wonderful new camera had a large LED screen, great except in sunshine, at which time it becomes mostly black. I had no idea what images were captured, clearly seen when we checked it out inside. Of course by the time we went to get more pictures, clouds. So another spectacular event is in memory only.
The Johnston Ridge Visitor Center has a wonderful movie of the volcano, interactive exhibits and stories of people from the blast. All work to create sense of awe. Several hiking paths are available, but we had a long drive back and did not go far.
We went to the Lava Tubes, two words we would never have put together prior to this trip. We learned that lave tubes are a passage of lava underground. The sides in contact with the earth cool more quickly, allowing the inner lava to continue to flow and drain. After learning of their existence, we found that they are very common in volcanic areas. We donned headlights and coats for the trip down a natural entrance about midway through the tube. It was even darker than the Taft Tunnel, but mercifully we didn’t have bikes. We had a wonderful adventure on the short trip, but decided against the longer more strenuous version which stretched out in the opposite direction.
We talked about a trip to the coast, but decided to leave it for the next time through. Our stop in Woodland had been far more fun and relaxing than we had anticipated. It also taught us to plan well ahead for holidays.
NEXT TIME: Astoria
Lewis and Clark
Who would think these historic figures would haunt our trip? Friend Pat had recommended Undaunted Courage by Stephen Ambrose, a favorite of ours, so I bought it, but not soon enough.
Upon leaving West Yellowstone we saw numerous “History Here” type signs telling of Lewis and Clark’s trip through the area. If the sign titles had been in smaller print, we never would have known as we flew on by. The pair and their company made a full quarter of their stops in Montana! On a previous trip, we had seen Captain Clark’s carved signature in Pompey’s Pillar. We climbed the height with the help of a stairway unavailable to the earlier explorer. We played tag with the route all through Montana, Idaho and Washington. Astoria, OR was the site of the group’s winter home on the Pacific. I was anxious to see the Columbia River described in the book, but the river of history no longer exists. Modern dams have drastically altered the landscape to improve navigation, create electric power, and moderate seasonal highs and lows – all worthy accomplishments. Given the trouble the L&C troop had with the river, they may heartily approve. Interestingly, passageways have been left to allow for salmon to swim upstream as always.
The Columbia is still a magnificent river with many waterfalls along the way. We traveled the back roads along the Columbia on both the Oregon and Washington side for some distances, enjoying bluffs, views and waterfalls. We went to Beacon Rock and climbed, again with the help of stairs, to stand where the first explorers and pioneers had surveyed the river. We also made a stop at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center in City of the Dalles to see artifacts of the trip, though few remain, it was a very nice exhibit. It helps to see depictions of the canoe the men were maneuvering through rivers and across portages and of the goods they carried. Parts of the book jumped out of the pages at this exhibit.
Unplanned and often unaware, we rolled down some of same paths that Lewis and Clark and their men struggled to cross. They created the maps and charted then unknown rivers. We hitched up the trailer and hit the road. The differences are staggering, but we were seeing these areas for the first time, taking in their beauty, and meeting the locals, just as the first expedition. So symmetry was there as well.
NEXT TIME: Plan. Stop.
Upon leaving West Yellowstone we saw numerous “History Here” type signs telling of Lewis and Clark’s trip through the area. If the sign titles had been in smaller print, we never would have known as we flew on by. The pair and their company made a full quarter of their stops in Montana! On a previous trip, we had seen Captain Clark’s carved signature in Pompey’s Pillar. We climbed the height with the help of a stairway unavailable to the earlier explorer. We played tag with the route all through Montana, Idaho and Washington. Astoria, OR was the site of the group’s winter home on the Pacific. I was anxious to see the Columbia River described in the book, but the river of history no longer exists. Modern dams have drastically altered the landscape to improve navigation, create electric power, and moderate seasonal highs and lows – all worthy accomplishments. Given the trouble the L&C troop had with the river, they may heartily approve. Interestingly, passageways have been left to allow for salmon to swim upstream as always.
The Columbia is still a magnificent river with many waterfalls along the way. We traveled the back roads along the Columbia on both the Oregon and Washington side for some distances, enjoying bluffs, views and waterfalls. We went to Beacon Rock and climbed, again with the help of stairs, to stand where the first explorers and pioneers had surveyed the river. We also made a stop at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center in City of the Dalles to see artifacts of the trip, though few remain, it was a very nice exhibit. It helps to see depictions of the canoe the men were maneuvering through rivers and across portages and of the goods they carried. Parts of the book jumped out of the pages at this exhibit.
Unplanned and often unaware, we rolled down some of same paths that Lewis and Clark and their men struggled to cross. They created the maps and charted then unknown rivers. We hitched up the trailer and hit the road. The differences are staggering, but we were seeing these areas for the first time, taking in their beauty, and meeting the locals, just as the first expedition. So symmetry was there as well.
NEXT TIME: Plan. Stop.
Centralia, Washington
June 22, 2009
Up until the Rutherford’s departure, we had had an agenda of sorts. We clearly wanted to get to specific points and geography dictated the order. We had a specific date to meet Rick and Pat and then 4 of us were in the planning. Now, we had a wide open map and time frame. Too many options is confusing! I don’t know that we had ever had this particular problem before. Russell met the challenge and decided it was time to head for San Francisco – YEA! We were enjoying Washington, so there was no hurry to leave. In addition we had yet to visit the volcanic peaks that hold so much beauty, mystery and power. I selected the town of Centralia, so named for its location between Seattle and Portland. The plan was to be able to easily drive to the coast, Mt. Rainer and Mt. St. Helen’s. The reality was that we were equally far, not equally close, to all desired points.
Still, Centralia, and the neighboring town of Chehalis, was a great stop. We were out of gloomy pines and in the bright sun. We needed to repair the RV, restock provisions, and generally get reorganized. We were also forced to take stock of what traveling had done to our bodies. It was seriously time for revisiting a diet plan. This is also where we picked up our bicycling adventures. We were busy!
We found a wonderful path courtesy of the Rails to Trails program again. We rode through several miles of countryside, the farms and hay fields of central Washington. We took a day trip to the coast which whet our appetite for more coastal towns.
We set our sites on Astoria and the Columbia River. Silly me! We were coming up on the July 4th weekend, any campground within 50 miles of Astoria had been booked solid for months. And so we headed next for Woodland.
Up until the Rutherford’s departure, we had had an agenda of sorts. We clearly wanted to get to specific points and geography dictated the order. We had a specific date to meet Rick and Pat and then 4 of us were in the planning. Now, we had a wide open map and time frame. Too many options is confusing! I don’t know that we had ever had this particular problem before. Russell met the challenge and decided it was time to head for San Francisco – YEA! We were enjoying Washington, so there was no hurry to leave. In addition we had yet to visit the volcanic peaks that hold so much beauty, mystery and power. I selected the town of Centralia, so named for its location between Seattle and Portland. The plan was to be able to easily drive to the coast, Mt. Rainer and Mt. St. Helen’s. The reality was that we were equally far, not equally close, to all desired points.
Still, Centralia, and the neighboring town of Chehalis, was a great stop. We were out of gloomy pines and in the bright sun. We needed to repair the RV, restock provisions, and generally get reorganized. We were also forced to take stock of what traveling had done to our bodies. It was seriously time for revisiting a diet plan. This is also where we picked up our bicycling adventures. We were busy!
We found a wonderful path courtesy of the Rails to Trails program again. We rode through several miles of countryside, the farms and hay fields of central Washington. We took a day trip to the coast which whet our appetite for more coastal towns.
We set our sites on Astoria and the Columbia River. Silly me! We were coming up on the July 4th weekend, any campground within 50 miles of Astoria had been booked solid for months. And so we headed next for Woodland.
Anacortes, Washington
June, 2009
The town of Anacortes on Fidalgo Island north of Seattle on Puget Sound, connected to the mainland by bridge. The short trip north led through port towns, industrial areas and farm lands. Anacortes is the primary connection to the San Juan Islands, with ferries running to the largest, San Juan, Shaw, Orcas, and Lopez. We chose to go to Lopez on a day trip. It is the smallest, closest, and least commercial of the 4. We drove to the island village and enjoyed a small artisan/produce fair. All 4 of us visited with merchants and other shoppers. While driving to a lighthouse, we were followed by a bald eagle. The lighthouse trip proved to be too long to allow us to meet the returning ferry, maybe next time. The ferry ride was great fun. It takes travelers past some of the smaller isles in route to the major destinations. Many islands of the group are not much more than large rocks protruding from the Sound.
In Anacortes we stayed at Pioneer Trails RV Park set in a beautiful pine forest. We cooked out and had a fire to warm our feet in the evening. Strawberries, which can be bought on every other corner, are beyond the best – deep red color, sweet and luscious! We walked downtown of this ship building and fishing community, stopping for a sunset drink in the hotel cupola. We also enjoyed a walk on a pedestrian bridge to visit with seals in the bay.
Driving south, you come to 2 wonderful bridges over Deception Pass headed to Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island. Original Spaniards thought the 2 islands were actually 1 separating The Strait of Juan de Fuca from the Saratoga Passage of Puget Sound. The pass, a deception, was found quite accidentally by Joseph Whidbey, an English sea captain. The bridges meet on a small isle conveniently left for the purpose. Turbulent waters in and around the pass are due to the extreme depth. We were able to watch eagles soar and hike beneath the bridge to the shore.
Anacortes is our last camp with the Rutherford’s. Pat had to return to work and Rick decided to turn home as well. It had been a wonderful 10 days, but all good things must end. They called us all through the trip home providing travel tips.
NEXT TIME: Walk on the ferry, or take bikes and take a longer trip through the islands.
The town of Anacortes on Fidalgo Island north of Seattle on Puget Sound, connected to the mainland by bridge. The short trip north led through port towns, industrial areas and farm lands. Anacortes is the primary connection to the San Juan Islands, with ferries running to the largest, San Juan, Shaw, Orcas, and Lopez. We chose to go to Lopez on a day trip. It is the smallest, closest, and least commercial of the 4. We drove to the island village and enjoyed a small artisan/produce fair. All 4 of us visited with merchants and other shoppers. While driving to a lighthouse, we were followed by a bald eagle. The lighthouse trip proved to be too long to allow us to meet the returning ferry, maybe next time. The ferry ride was great fun. It takes travelers past some of the smaller isles in route to the major destinations. Many islands of the group are not much more than large rocks protruding from the Sound.
In Anacortes we stayed at Pioneer Trails RV Park set in a beautiful pine forest. We cooked out and had a fire to warm our feet in the evening. Strawberries, which can be bought on every other corner, are beyond the best – deep red color, sweet and luscious! We walked downtown of this ship building and fishing community, stopping for a sunset drink in the hotel cupola. We also enjoyed a walk on a pedestrian bridge to visit with seals in the bay.
Driving south, you come to 2 wonderful bridges over Deception Pass headed to Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island. Original Spaniards thought the 2 islands were actually 1 separating The Strait of Juan de Fuca from the Saratoga Passage of Puget Sound. The pass, a deception, was found quite accidentally by Joseph Whidbey, an English sea captain. The bridges meet on a small isle conveniently left for the purpose. Turbulent waters in and around the pass are due to the extreme depth. We were able to watch eagles soar and hike beneath the bridge to the shore.
Anacortes is our last camp with the Rutherford’s. Pat had to return to work and Rick decided to turn home as well. It had been a wonderful 10 days, but all good things must end. They called us all through the trip home providing travel tips.
NEXT TIME: Walk on the ferry, or take bikes and take a longer trip through the islands.
Seattle, Washington
June 15, 2009
We met up with Rick and Pat at the Lake Pleasant RV Park, a beauty with sites along the perimeter of two small lakes. Again we really enjoyed being able to share cooking responsibilities with them and collaborate on some great meals.
We did the tour of downtown; Pike’s Market, docks, shops, Nordstrom’s Flagship! I was amazed by downtown. This is a city with half the population of Dallas and twice the downtown. They have managed to keep businesses open and well in an era where many cities are in decline. One obvious thing they have done is to keep their sports teams in the downtown area. Dallas certainly missed that boat! (They have managed to keep the Mavs and Stars, but let the Rangers and Cowboys, and now Cotton Bowl get away.)
Russell and I took a tour of underground Seattle, a real treat. It is in the old downtown area of Pioneer Square. Our guide gave a very humorous view of the founding fathers and their many missteps. In this area you enter buildings on the second floor; all first floors are under street level. This was not the original design. I guess all of us know too much about how our hometowns came to be and harbor a little disdain toward the leaders we know a little too much about.
The Rutherford’s tired of gloomy Seattle and went on to the next destination. We stayed on a bit to handle some business and regroup.
NEXT TIME: stay awhile
We met up with Rick and Pat at the Lake Pleasant RV Park, a beauty with sites along the perimeter of two small lakes. Again we really enjoyed being able to share cooking responsibilities with them and collaborate on some great meals.
We did the tour of downtown; Pike’s Market, docks, shops, Nordstrom’s Flagship! I was amazed by downtown. This is a city with half the population of Dallas and twice the downtown. They have managed to keep businesses open and well in an era where many cities are in decline. One obvious thing they have done is to keep their sports teams in the downtown area. Dallas certainly missed that boat! (They have managed to keep the Mavs and Stars, but let the Rangers and Cowboys, and now Cotton Bowl get away.)
Russell and I took a tour of underground Seattle, a real treat. It is in the old downtown area of Pioneer Square. Our guide gave a very humorous view of the founding fathers and their many missteps. In this area you enter buildings on the second floor; all first floors are under street level. This was not the original design. I guess all of us know too much about how our hometowns came to be and harbor a little disdain toward the leaders we know a little too much about.
The Rutherford’s tired of gloomy Seattle and went on to the next destination. We stayed on a bit to handle some business and regroup.
NEXT TIME: stay awhile
Washington State
June 15, 2009
What a surprise! It is a short drive across the Idaho panhandle to Spokane. Once through the city you are in rural Washington, Gone are the rugged peaks of Montana and Idaho. The land opens up to rolling hillsides covered with agriculture. The growing season was in full swing with mile after mile of farm land. You could smell the alfalfa being mowed and bundled. We saw row after row of Quonset-type portable buildings full of hay. We loved the smell of it storing in the barn. Alfalfa is dessert for cattle, heaven help the person who gets between a longhorn bull and alfalfa! In one area the farmers even had signs on the fences to tell what was growing. We loved that. We thought Washington was just for apples-how very unenlightened of us.
About mid-state farm land plays out and hillsides become more rugged. Our next shock was a gorge that opened to reveal an amazing lake, deep blue with black cliffs dominating the sky. We crossed a beautiful, modern bridge on our way to another drastic topography change. We entered the forested tall mountains with plunging waterfalls and one lake after another. Our trip on I-90 was one jaw dropping experience after another.
NEXT TIME: STOP!
What a surprise! It is a short drive across the Idaho panhandle to Spokane. Once through the city you are in rural Washington, Gone are the rugged peaks of Montana and Idaho. The land opens up to rolling hillsides covered with agriculture. The growing season was in full swing with mile after mile of farm land. You could smell the alfalfa being mowed and bundled. We saw row after row of Quonset-type portable buildings full of hay. We loved the smell of it storing in the barn. Alfalfa is dessert for cattle, heaven help the person who gets between a longhorn bull and alfalfa! In one area the farmers even had signs on the fences to tell what was growing. We loved that. We thought Washington was just for apples-how very unenlightened of us.
About mid-state farm land plays out and hillsides become more rugged. Our next shock was a gorge that opened to reveal an amazing lake, deep blue with black cliffs dominating the sky. We crossed a beautiful, modern bridge on our way to another drastic topography change. We entered the forested tall mountains with plunging waterfalls and one lake after another. Our trip on I-90 was one jaw dropping experience after another.
NEXT TIME: STOP!
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