Three wet weeks in Brownsville prompted some creative internet surfing. Russell landed on a very attractive, low miles class-A which started the negotiations by email and cell phone - love technology! So the hunt began for a TOAD-rv speak for a tow vehicle - also online. The only obstacle was the 13-hour drive from Brownsville to Valley View, TX (just south of Gainsville). The rig looked as good as promised and the deal struck!
Less than two weeks later, all goals have been accomplished! We are now mostly settled in our 2004 Monaco Diplomat with a 2005 Saturn Vue tow car. We moved in from the 5th-wheel beginning 12-22 with all goods stowed in some fashion by 12-23. It was not a pretty picture, but we rolled out of the dealership and headed for a park in Denton to sort out all of the details.
We are staying in the Dallas area to continue tweeking the minor repair work and learning new systems. We anticipate travel in more comfort with easier extended travel. No more repeated attempts at hitching, and many other chores that we had come to dread. BONUS: I won't hit my head on the hitch again.
The down side of all this activity was canceling our plans to meet friends for New Year's at Ft. Davis. So these dear floks adjusted their plans and drove to Dallas to join us on Christmas Day. What an awesome gift!
Pics to follow, we haven't had time yet!
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
TEXAS
November, 2009
We drove from Albuquerque to Dallas in a single day, with the obligatory stop at the Big Texan for lunch. This is not recommended. We could’a stopped, should’a stopped, but Russell was determined to arrive into the Metroplex and negotiate an unfamiliar campground in the dark, after a long day. The man loves a challenge! Fortunately The Treetops Campground had given us a long, wide pull-through and a wonderful manager to help us accomplish the goal with as much grace as possible.
It was so wonderful to have trees with leaves falling and a damp chill in the air. It felt like being home again, which, of course, it was. We had time in Dallas to enjoy friends and Kyle, take care of business and see doctors. We headed to Waco for more of the same, and then to Houston to enjoy Thanksgiving with more family and friends. Even the right football teams won! It was a wonderful few weeks. In Waco we revisited Skipper and Connie at their RV Park, the River View. We found a great location to revisit on return trips in Dickinson, The Palms RV Park.
More of Texas awaits! About 30 years ago, we planned for a vacation at South Padre Island, but a devastating hurricane in that area changed all of that. This seemed like a good time to finally get to The Valley and South Padre.
The drive south is fairly long and uneventful in terms of terrain. Russell kept looking for when The Valley started, trying to spot high points in terrain so that a “valley” could be determined. Never found it! The best definition I could come up with is that the valley includes land that drains to the Rio Grande, and it is low elevation, even if there is no high elevation to show a contrast.
We arrived in true Geezer Heaven at Winter Haven Retirement Village. This gated community in Brownsville is second home to many Canadians and other Winter Texans, even quite a lot of North Texas Texans who like to wear shorts and t-shirts all year long. There is a nice mix of RV’s, park model homes, and brick homes along the man-made canals. Golf carts are the transport of choice! Although the weather has been less than perfect, we have been able to ride bikes and walk most days. The food shopping is terrific and we have tried new recipes with the available produce.
We drove from Albuquerque to Dallas in a single day, with the obligatory stop at the Big Texan for lunch. This is not recommended. We could’a stopped, should’a stopped, but Russell was determined to arrive into the Metroplex and negotiate an unfamiliar campground in the dark, after a long day. The man loves a challenge! Fortunately The Treetops Campground had given us a long, wide pull-through and a wonderful manager to help us accomplish the goal with as much grace as possible.
It was so wonderful to have trees with leaves falling and a damp chill in the air. It felt like being home again, which, of course, it was. We had time in Dallas to enjoy friends and Kyle, take care of business and see doctors. We headed to Waco for more of the same, and then to Houston to enjoy Thanksgiving with more family and friends. Even the right football teams won! It was a wonderful few weeks. In Waco we revisited Skipper and Connie at their RV Park, the River View. We found a great location to revisit on return trips in Dickinson, The Palms RV Park.
More of Texas awaits! About 30 years ago, we planned for a vacation at South Padre Island, but a devastating hurricane in that area changed all of that. This seemed like a good time to finally get to The Valley and South Padre.
The drive south is fairly long and uneventful in terms of terrain. Russell kept looking for when The Valley started, trying to spot high points in terrain so that a “valley” could be determined. Never found it! The best definition I could come up with is that the valley includes land that drains to the Rio Grande, and it is low elevation, even if there is no high elevation to show a contrast.
We arrived in true Geezer Heaven at Winter Haven Retirement Village. This gated community in Brownsville is second home to many Canadians and other Winter Texans, even quite a lot of North Texas Texans who like to wear shorts and t-shirts all year long. There is a nice mix of RV’s, park model homes, and brick homes along the man-made canals. Golf carts are the transport of choice! Although the weather has been less than perfect, we have been able to ride bikes and walk most days. The food shopping is terrific and we have tried new recipes with the available produce.
New Mexico
November 3, 2009
We headed northeast out of Phoenix toward I-40 and northern New Mexico, the thermometer dropping the entire way. Except for a short stretch of alpine in
Arizona, it was desert the whole way. The varying hues of red, orange, yellow changed with time of day and elevation, each vista beautiful and far reaching. We have driven this part of I-40 before, but I didn’t remember the large lava fields. El Malpais is the Spanish term for these badlands of roughed terrain. But our destination of Albuquerque lay further east.
We had allowed one day to Albuquerque, surely not enough. We elected to visit Old Town first to soak up culture, history and Mexican food. The bonus was the wonderful day of shopping. We had a beautiful sunny day to get our Christmas shopping complete with no hassles of the mall. We both enjoyed the hunt in this laid back adobe setting.
NEXT TIME: the lava fields, Albuquerque museums
We headed northeast out of Phoenix toward I-40 and northern New Mexico, the thermometer dropping the entire way. Except for a short stretch of alpine in
Arizona, it was desert the whole way. The varying hues of red, orange, yellow changed with time of day and elevation, each vista beautiful and far reaching. We have driven this part of I-40 before, but I didn’t remember the large lava fields. El Malpais is the Spanish term for these badlands of roughed terrain. But our destination of Albuquerque lay further east.
We had allowed one day to Albuquerque, surely not enough. We elected to visit Old Town first to soak up culture, history and Mexican food. The bonus was the wonderful day of shopping. We had a beautiful sunny day to get our Christmas shopping complete with no hassles of the mall. We both enjoyed the hunt in this laid back adobe setting.
NEXT TIME: the lava fields, Albuquerque museums
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico; a NON-RV Trip!
October 10-20, 2009
We were very excited about our long awaited first trip to the interior of Mexico. The RV waited for us back in Phoenix while we flew south. Russell’s unexpected cold threw a damper on things, but he usually gets over these things quickly and it was way too late to change plans. We were staying with the Rutherford’s in their hillside condo and had many plans. We took it easy the first day to allow time for rest from travel and to let Russell get well. But dinner on the beach, a walk through town and the main drag were great fun. Pat, a fabulous cook, served dinner on the terrace to watch the sunset on Sunday.
By Monday, Russell was much better and I was sick. We went to town that morning, where we bought medicine and each had a massage. That was the end of my week. Russell, Rick and Pat went ahead with a modified version of “Our Plans” hoping I would be up and ready the next day. That never really happened. I had 3 wonderful nurses who were very patient with the wrench I had thrown.
We did walk on the beach and wade in the water. Russell and Rick took parachute flights over the bay and loved it. Venders walk the beach with their wares ready to bargain with tourists. “You want to broke my family?” from one such vender become the catch-phrase of the trip. We drove north of town to see the filming location for Predator. Unbelievably, the movie was on TV the night before we drove out there! The drive to and through the jungle was so different from the Pacific forests of western United States. We walked through the sand-floored huts and along the river that was in the movie – very cool! The locale is now a restaurant. Each couple got the fish and ribs for 2. They bring out a cookie sheet platter loaded with double portions of red snapper, lobster, shish-kabob, ribs, chicken and trimmings. Two of these sat on the table before 4 wide-eyed, but very hungry, people. It was a feast! We sat drinking margaritas while the waiters not only cleared all the tables; they stacked them and the chairs. We left to continue south to another famous restaurant, The Cliffs. This one sits right on the shore, each deck a little closer to the water. We enjoyed dessert and coffee with a view of the crescent shoreline of Puerto Vallarta. Oh My!
We really enjoyed PV. It caters to tourists with a beautiful bay, fun shopping, beautiful sites and great food. The Rutherford’s condo is very comfortable, offering an eye-popping view of the city and bay. We spent many hours on the terrace, especially in the evening, to enjoy the lights and the nightly fireworks show.
We were very excited about our long awaited first trip to the interior of Mexico. The RV waited for us back in Phoenix while we flew south. Russell’s unexpected cold threw a damper on things, but he usually gets over these things quickly and it was way too late to change plans. We were staying with the Rutherford’s in their hillside condo and had many plans. We took it easy the first day to allow time for rest from travel and to let Russell get well. But dinner on the beach, a walk through town and the main drag were great fun. Pat, a fabulous cook, served dinner on the terrace to watch the sunset on Sunday.
By Monday, Russell was much better and I was sick. We went to town that morning, where we bought medicine and each had a massage. That was the end of my week. Russell, Rick and Pat went ahead with a modified version of “Our Plans” hoping I would be up and ready the next day. That never really happened. I had 3 wonderful nurses who were very patient with the wrench I had thrown.
We did walk on the beach and wade in the water. Russell and Rick took parachute flights over the bay and loved it. Venders walk the beach with their wares ready to bargain with tourists. “You want to broke my family?” from one such vender become the catch-phrase of the trip. We drove north of town to see the filming location for Predator. Unbelievably, the movie was on TV the night before we drove out there! The drive to and through the jungle was so different from the Pacific forests of western United States. We walked through the sand-floored huts and along the river that was in the movie – very cool! The locale is now a restaurant. Each couple got the fish and ribs for 2. They bring out a cookie sheet platter loaded with double portions of red snapper, lobster, shish-kabob, ribs, chicken and trimmings. Two of these sat on the table before 4 wide-eyed, but very hungry, people. It was a feast! We sat drinking margaritas while the waiters not only cleared all the tables; they stacked them and the chairs. We left to continue south to another famous restaurant, The Cliffs. This one sits right on the shore, each deck a little closer to the water. We enjoyed dessert and coffee with a view of the crescent shoreline of Puerto Vallarta. Oh My!
We really enjoyed PV. It caters to tourists with a beautiful bay, fun shopping, beautiful sites and great food. The Rutherford’s condo is very comfortable, offering an eye-popping view of the city and bay. We spent many hours on the terrace, especially in the evening, to enjoy the lights and the nightly fireworks show.
Phoenix, Arizona
October 4, 2009
We left San Diego hugging the Mexican border along I-8 the drive was as interesting and unique as all the others have been. Signs of the border and border agents were everywhere in this sparse landscape. We drove through the Cleveland National Forest (no trees here), the Imperial Valley, and Imperial Valley Sand Dunes on our way to Yuma, Arizona. Great amounts of the sand dunes were blowing across the freeway to Mexico making visibility difficult. The winds and sands stopped at the border, though, for a scenic drive through southwestern Arizona to Phoenix. It was nice to be coming back to some place and have a sense of the familiar.
We spent a week enjoying Rick and Pat and getting ready for our trip to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. It is nice to just be here and have no pressure to sightsee. We’ve spent the near-month resting, recuperating, and catching up on business with beautiful weather and gorgeous mountains in the background. It has been time to work, bike, walk, watch football and sit in the hot tub. It is especially nice to have all of this and friends close by to enjoy it with.
We left San Diego hugging the Mexican border along I-8 the drive was as interesting and unique as all the others have been. Signs of the border and border agents were everywhere in this sparse landscape. We drove through the Cleveland National Forest (no trees here), the Imperial Valley, and Imperial Valley Sand Dunes on our way to Yuma, Arizona. Great amounts of the sand dunes were blowing across the freeway to Mexico making visibility difficult. The winds and sands stopped at the border, though, for a scenic drive through southwestern Arizona to Phoenix. It was nice to be coming back to some place and have a sense of the familiar.
We spent a week enjoying Rick and Pat and getting ready for our trip to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. It is nice to just be here and have no pressure to sightsee. We’ve spent the near-month resting, recuperating, and catching up on business with beautiful weather and gorgeous mountains in the background. It has been time to work, bike, walk, watch football and sit in the hot tub. It is especially nice to have all of this and friends close by to enjoy it with.
San Diego, CA
September 9, 2009
Arriving in San Diego on I-15 begins north of Escondido, about 50 miles away from the southern extreme of San Diego at Tijuana, Mexico. Our RV address took us to within a few miles of that border. Our site at La Pacifica was pool side, a fact we both took advantage of.
We had all the expected tourist destinations planned, but first flew to Dallas for a quick weekend with our son. Other non-tourist activities included visits to an eye doctor, ordering new glasses, installing our new satellite, and watching the stock market. All so exciting! We are enjoying the reliability of the satellite service.
Our first excursion was the Maritime Museum at the harbor. We got to board the oldest merchant sailboat that still can be sailed in its original method, no engines have been added. We learned that volunteers at the museum earn the right to crew the Star of India by passing certifications and serving volunteer hours. It is quite an honor to be among the 60 hands needed to fully man the steel hulled beauty. A USSR Foxtrot submarine is on the tour as well as a USA experimental sub, the Dolphin. A historic luxury steam yacht that also served in both World Wars is a study in teak and fine living. The HMS Surprise is a replica of the original frigate that was used to film Master and Commander. It displays original cannons and photos of the movie. The Victorian era Berkeley would be a wonderful way to ferry between Berkeley and San Francisco. The modern Stars and Stripes is docked along side these antique versions of sail power providing lovely contrast. We walked along the dock to the Navy World War II monuments near the USS Midway carrier. A different day we walked downtown enjoying lunch in the Gaslamp Quarter and a stroll through Little Italy at opposite ends of downtown. Returning to the car felt a little like a forced march, but it was a beautiful day.
A happy coincident: Any time we are in Dallas, we have to visit Half Priced Books at Northwest Hwy. They always have something surprising. This time I picked up a copy of Two Years Before the Mast, a first person account of merchant ships in the mid 19th century. The author, Richard Henry Dana, saw southern California when it was a part of Mexico as a sailor on ships that transported hides east. Reading his diary account of ports from San Francisco to San Diego gives a glimpse of the land and culture of 1835. It was especially interesting to have walked on a bark like Star of India, much like the author’s ship, the Alert. There could be no better time to read this American classic.
We drove around Balboa Park and spent a great afternoon at the famed zoo. We rode the sky lift tram, the tour bus and moving sidewalk in addition to a lot of walking to see all the exotic animals and plants. Gorillas and polar bears really put on a show, while pandas and koalas sort of allowed us to gaze upon them. We were fortunate to visit the gorillas at the same time as one of their greatest fans. This frequent zoo visitor told us names, how to identify each gorilla of the family and shared many of their antics. San Diego actually has 2 families and rotates them into view. According to our new friend, we got to see the more interesting group of a male, 3 females and a baby, Adam.
We spent an afternoon at La Jolla, walking at the cove, park and beach. Russell wants the concession that allows other reluctant tourists the option of not watching the “smelly blobs,” aka, seals. I thought they were cute! No smelly blobs at the Hotel Del Coronado! All is pristine and upper crust! Our location south of Chula Vista allowed us to follow CA 75 up the beach to “Coronado Island.” The area actually became a peninsula when it was connected to the mainland at Imperial Beach and the highway was built. Another highway connects the city to downtown via a dramatic bridge. You can still ferry across from the downtown harbor and walk the quaint streets to arrive at the hotel. Staying at this historic Victorian beauty would be a real treat and step back in time.
October 1 came and it was time to leave San Diego and California. 2.5 months is not enough time to see everything we had wanted, but it was certainly a great start.
NEXT TIME: Stay north of the city. Visit San Juan Capistrano. Balboa Park museums!
Arriving in San Diego on I-15 begins north of Escondido, about 50 miles away from the southern extreme of San Diego at Tijuana, Mexico. Our RV address took us to within a few miles of that border. Our site at La Pacifica was pool side, a fact we both took advantage of.
We had all the expected tourist destinations planned, but first flew to Dallas for a quick weekend with our son. Other non-tourist activities included visits to an eye doctor, ordering new glasses, installing our new satellite, and watching the stock market. All so exciting! We are enjoying the reliability of the satellite service.
Our first excursion was the Maritime Museum at the harbor. We got to board the oldest merchant sailboat that still can be sailed in its original method, no engines have been added. We learned that volunteers at the museum earn the right to crew the Star of India by passing certifications and serving volunteer hours. It is quite an honor to be among the 60 hands needed to fully man the steel hulled beauty. A USSR Foxtrot submarine is on the tour as well as a USA experimental sub, the Dolphin. A historic luxury steam yacht that also served in both World Wars is a study in teak and fine living. The HMS Surprise is a replica of the original frigate that was used to film Master and Commander. It displays original cannons and photos of the movie. The Victorian era Berkeley would be a wonderful way to ferry between Berkeley and San Francisco. The modern Stars and Stripes is docked along side these antique versions of sail power providing lovely contrast. We walked along the dock to the Navy World War II monuments near the USS Midway carrier. A different day we walked downtown enjoying lunch in the Gaslamp Quarter and a stroll through Little Italy at opposite ends of downtown. Returning to the car felt a little like a forced march, but it was a beautiful day.
A happy coincident: Any time we are in Dallas, we have to visit Half Priced Books at Northwest Hwy. They always have something surprising. This time I picked up a copy of Two Years Before the Mast, a first person account of merchant ships in the mid 19th century. The author, Richard Henry Dana, saw southern California when it was a part of Mexico as a sailor on ships that transported hides east. Reading his diary account of ports from San Francisco to San Diego gives a glimpse of the land and culture of 1835. It was especially interesting to have walked on a bark like Star of India, much like the author’s ship, the Alert. There could be no better time to read this American classic.
We drove around Balboa Park and spent a great afternoon at the famed zoo. We rode the sky lift tram, the tour bus and moving sidewalk in addition to a lot of walking to see all the exotic animals and plants. Gorillas and polar bears really put on a show, while pandas and koalas sort of allowed us to gaze upon them. We were fortunate to visit the gorillas at the same time as one of their greatest fans. This frequent zoo visitor told us names, how to identify each gorilla of the family and shared many of their antics. San Diego actually has 2 families and rotates them into view. According to our new friend, we got to see the more interesting group of a male, 3 females and a baby, Adam.
We spent an afternoon at La Jolla, walking at the cove, park and beach. Russell wants the concession that allows other reluctant tourists the option of not watching the “smelly blobs,” aka, seals. I thought they were cute! No smelly blobs at the Hotel Del Coronado! All is pristine and upper crust! Our location south of Chula Vista allowed us to follow CA 75 up the beach to “Coronado Island.” The area actually became a peninsula when it was connected to the mainland at Imperial Beach and the highway was built. Another highway connects the city to downtown via a dramatic bridge. You can still ferry across from the downtown harbor and walk the quaint streets to arrive at the hotel. Staying at this historic Victorian beauty would be a real treat and step back in time.
October 1 came and it was time to leave San Diego and California. 2.5 months is not enough time to see everything we had wanted, but it was certainly a great start.
NEXT TIME: Stay north of the city. Visit San Juan Capistrano. Balboa Park museums!
Driving LA: Ash. Smog. Traffic.
September 9, 2009
This was not a fun trip! We camped in Acton with a plan to cut through mountains to I-15 and skirt Las Angeles. More research was needed. The camp cashier said, “I think there’s still a fire over there.”
So I put in a call to CHP –the Erik Estrada CHiPs of younger years. The gentleman there, not Erik, said, “There are so many reasons not to take a 40ft. trailer on that road, fire is only 1!” His recommendation: CA-14 to I-5 to I-210 to I-15. The CHP advice really was good. We saw smoke billowing from the north and east for the entirety of I-210. We had to wonder how people continue to live in area prone to fire on such a regular basis.
LA is the only place we’ve experienced drivers who would not yield to a 65’ vehicle in a bind. We tried to stay in the right lane, but they kept playing out into “EXIT ONLY” lanes. Russell made 1 quick lane change with, “They’ll just have to move!” and they did. Only 1 guy flipped us off, and a couple of ladies were mouthing at us. Not too bad.
However, it turned out that “I-210 to I-15” was a little vague. The 2 roads do not intersect. Garmin and a good map got us through. We arrived in San Diego after only 5 hours, a long, but largely uneventful trip.
NEXT TIME: Just don’t go there.
This was not a fun trip! We camped in Acton with a plan to cut through mountains to I-15 and skirt Las Angeles. More research was needed. The camp cashier said, “I think there’s still a fire over there.”
So I put in a call to CHP –the Erik Estrada CHiPs of younger years. The gentleman there, not Erik, said, “There are so many reasons not to take a 40ft. trailer on that road, fire is only 1!” His recommendation: CA-14 to I-5 to I-210 to I-15. The CHP advice really was good. We saw smoke billowing from the north and east for the entirety of I-210. We had to wonder how people continue to live in area prone to fire on such a regular basis.
LA is the only place we’ve experienced drivers who would not yield to a 65’ vehicle in a bind. We tried to stay in the right lane, but they kept playing out into “EXIT ONLY” lanes. Russell made 1 quick lane change with, “They’ll just have to move!” and they did. Only 1 guy flipped us off, and a couple of ladies were mouthing at us. Not too bad.
However, it turned out that “I-210 to I-15” was a little vague. The 2 roads do not intersect. Garmin and a good map got us through. We arrived in San Diego after only 5 hours, a long, but largely uneventful trip.
NEXT TIME: Just don’t go there.
Morro Bay, California
August 31, 2009
This is a wonderful town! The Embarcadero is harbor-side and touristy. Main St. is up the bluff and more hometown in feeling. Just offshore, the Morro Rock is an amazing hunk of granite. We see it our or the window at our Morro Strand RV site. The dome is a cap that formed inside a volcano and eventually sealed it shut. Actually, Morro, Spanish for dome, used to be much larger prior to being quarried for many years. Millions of tons of granite were hauled away, providing the rock for many buildings in the state and for the jetty that helps form the harbor at Morro Bay. Many such rocks sit just off the Pacific coastline. Morro Rock is larger than any of the others we saw and you can drive or walk to it. People can go about half-way around the perimeter, but climbing is not allowed.
Morro Bay is also different from most California coastal towns in that it still has a fleet of fishing boats. Morro Bay is very accessible by bike and foot. There are nearby parks that offer hike and bike paths and a golf course. The estuary is protected marsh land that shelters over 250 migratory bird species.
There are two farmer’s markets each week of the summer. Thursday’s is just north of town and is primarily produce. We found the usual offerings plus lemon cucumbers, Chinese eggplant, Chinese green beans, and French cantaloupe. We did the full stroll sampling along the way prior to spending money. The Saturday farmer’s market downtown has produce but features more artisans wares along with local fish and meat.
Scenery, weather, and location make this California town one of the best we have visited. Unfortunately I have been nursing an eye infection the whole week that made me feel like it was a case of the flu. Russell had allergy trouble with his eyes watering, so maybe we are allergic to the air here, or the juniper outside the window. The down time has given Russell the opportunity to do hitch maintenance and worry over the stock market. It also gave us time to head back to the Hearst Castle!
The previous week we had taken tour 1, The Experience, and seen the movie, Building the Dream. We decided to take tour 2 which included the kitchen and upstairs rooms of the main house. As good as our first guide was Bill was even better on tour 2. This castle is 1 of 7 Hearst estates and we learned that each has a different motif. The San Simeon castle is a display of Mediterranean architecture, gardens and art. There are 3 guest houses, the smallest of which is about 2800 sq. ft. On the last trip we went through one of them. It has a living room and 4 bedrooms and baths. On tour 2 we saw at least a dozen guest rooms in the main house. Each Hearst guest was assigned a bed and bathroom. So if there are 2 beds in a room, there will be 2 bathrooms. Closets were shared and usually not tin the room, but in the hall. Each set of guest rooms has a sitting area. The most elaborate sitting room is the library – 3 rooms, a large center room and 2 symmetrically smaller rooms on each end. This room not only houses rare books but pottery and urns from ancient cultures, Etruscan, Greek, and Egyptian. The 3 upper floors were multiple levels; one jewel of a bedroom was in the bell tower. There is an original 1928 elevator still in working order that was used when the house was a private residence, but the tour has visitors tramping up and down spiral staircases in turrets. Stairwells reveal the massive amounts of concrete used in the structure. The elaborate antique ceilings are suspended from rebar reinforced ceiling between each floor. Despite major earthquake damage in nearby towns and structures, the castle has never felt any effects.
The house and grounds require $9.5 million in maintenance and staff annually. The total amount comes from tour proceeds. The castle is uninsurable since the architectural and furnishings art is irreplaceable. The ceiling in Hearst’s bedroom is painted panels of 6th century Spanish religious figures. One small Madonna and Child by Duccio di Buoninsegna was valued at $10 million many years ago. Hearst’s office is a large Moorish affair with multiple desks, tables and sitting areas.
All bedrooms, including the master suite, are rather small – ornate, elaborate, beautiful, and comfortable – but fairly simple in meeting ones’ needs. The public rooms are large, offering several small private areas. Mix and mingle was the requirement of all guests. The single large living room, single dining room with a single table and a single enormous kitchen reinforce the community feel. No room service of food or drink was provided or allowed.
Given another trip through the area, we will probably take one of the other tours at The Enchanted Hill.
This is a wonderful town! The Embarcadero is harbor-side and touristy. Main St. is up the bluff and more hometown in feeling. Just offshore, the Morro Rock is an amazing hunk of granite. We see it our or the window at our Morro Strand RV site. The dome is a cap that formed inside a volcano and eventually sealed it shut. Actually, Morro, Spanish for dome, used to be much larger prior to being quarried for many years. Millions of tons of granite were hauled away, providing the rock for many buildings in the state and for the jetty that helps form the harbor at Morro Bay. Many such rocks sit just off the Pacific coastline. Morro Rock is larger than any of the others we saw and you can drive or walk to it. People can go about half-way around the perimeter, but climbing is not allowed.
Morro Bay is also different from most California coastal towns in that it still has a fleet of fishing boats. Morro Bay is very accessible by bike and foot. There are nearby parks that offer hike and bike paths and a golf course. The estuary is protected marsh land that shelters over 250 migratory bird species.
There are two farmer’s markets each week of the summer. Thursday’s is just north of town and is primarily produce. We found the usual offerings plus lemon cucumbers, Chinese eggplant, Chinese green beans, and French cantaloupe. We did the full stroll sampling along the way prior to spending money. The Saturday farmer’s market downtown has produce but features more artisans wares along with local fish and meat.
Scenery, weather, and location make this California town one of the best we have visited. Unfortunately I have been nursing an eye infection the whole week that made me feel like it was a case of the flu. Russell had allergy trouble with his eyes watering, so maybe we are allergic to the air here, or the juniper outside the window. The down time has given Russell the opportunity to do hitch maintenance and worry over the stock market. It also gave us time to head back to the Hearst Castle!
The previous week we had taken tour 1, The Experience, and seen the movie, Building the Dream. We decided to take tour 2 which included the kitchen and upstairs rooms of the main house. As good as our first guide was Bill was even better on tour 2. This castle is 1 of 7 Hearst estates and we learned that each has a different motif. The San Simeon castle is a display of Mediterranean architecture, gardens and art. There are 3 guest houses, the smallest of which is about 2800 sq. ft. On the last trip we went through one of them. It has a living room and 4 bedrooms and baths. On tour 2 we saw at least a dozen guest rooms in the main house. Each Hearst guest was assigned a bed and bathroom. So if there are 2 beds in a room, there will be 2 bathrooms. Closets were shared and usually not tin the room, but in the hall. Each set of guest rooms has a sitting area. The most elaborate sitting room is the library – 3 rooms, a large center room and 2 symmetrically smaller rooms on each end. This room not only houses rare books but pottery and urns from ancient cultures, Etruscan, Greek, and Egyptian. The 3 upper floors were multiple levels; one jewel of a bedroom was in the bell tower. There is an original 1928 elevator still in working order that was used when the house was a private residence, but the tour has visitors tramping up and down spiral staircases in turrets. Stairwells reveal the massive amounts of concrete used in the structure. The elaborate antique ceilings are suspended from rebar reinforced ceiling between each floor. Despite major earthquake damage in nearby towns and structures, the castle has never felt any effects.
The house and grounds require $9.5 million in maintenance and staff annually. The total amount comes from tour proceeds. The castle is uninsurable since the architectural and furnishings art is irreplaceable. The ceiling in Hearst’s bedroom is painted panels of 6th century Spanish religious figures. One small Madonna and Child by Duccio di Buoninsegna was valued at $10 million many years ago. Hearst’s office is a large Moorish affair with multiple desks, tables and sitting areas.
All bedrooms, including the master suite, are rather small – ornate, elaborate, beautiful, and comfortable – but fairly simple in meeting ones’ needs. The public rooms are large, offering several small private areas. Mix and mingle was the requirement of all guests. The single large living room, single dining room with a single table and a single enormous kitchen reinforce the community feel. No room service of food or drink was provided or allowed.
Given another trip through the area, we will probably take one of the other tours at The Enchanted Hill.
Paso Robles, California
August 24, 2009
“Napa is for car parts, Paso is for wine!” so goes the saying in this central coast town. We read several figures from 180 to over 300 vineyards in the area, each with a tasting room. Where to begin?
Hwy 46 is the primary artery for vineyards. Go east or west from town and you will see at least 3 establishments at every turn. We chose to travel west on 46 because it is the most scenic and there is no road construction. Some wine tasting rooms require a fee of anywhere from $3 to $10 and/or a purchase of wine, many bottles have a starting price around $30. This is a little pricey for confirmed “box drinkers” like us. We headed to the Rotta Vineyard because their prices are more reasonable and they are the oldest family owned vineyard in the area, founded in 1908. A wonderful lady was serving up wine and fun. Gail is a self-defined “storm of a bartender.” We worked our way through 11 “pours” tasting white, reds and desserts while visiting with other folks at the bar. We met the owner, Mike Guibbini, grandson of the original owner. Mike helped with the larger than expected Thursday afternoon crowd. We had no trouble selecting the cabernet for purchase.
While in Paso, we took a day-trip to Hearst Castle. Although Russell is not big into house tours, Hearst has enough features to impress even the most reluctant husband. Built when WRH was approaching 60, The Enchanted Hill is the culmination of a lifetime of travel and collecting. He and architect Julia Morgan spared no expense to get it right. The setting, multiple buildings and furnishings are all designed to enhance one another and create the desired atmosphere, party. I had read Marion Davies autobiography and knew of the glittering array of personalities to attend events during the 1920’s through 1940’s. Davies, an actress, was Hearst’s mistress and lady of the house. Mrs. Hearst was rarely at the castle, preferring her New York home. You have to wonder how this arrangement impacted Hearst’s relationship with his 5 sons.
One evening we enjoyed a concert at the Paso Robles city park. A large group gathered to picnic and listen to swing, complete with a Zoot-Suited singer. Many danced but most just enjoyed the wonderful music and whatever was in the cooler. It was a relaxing, if very warm evening.
Daytime temperatures are over 100 degrees in Paso in August, great reason to move on to the next town.
“Napa is for car parts, Paso is for wine!” so goes the saying in this central coast town. We read several figures from 180 to over 300 vineyards in the area, each with a tasting room. Where to begin?
Hwy 46 is the primary artery for vineyards. Go east or west from town and you will see at least 3 establishments at every turn. We chose to travel west on 46 because it is the most scenic and there is no road construction. Some wine tasting rooms require a fee of anywhere from $3 to $10 and/or a purchase of wine, many bottles have a starting price around $30. This is a little pricey for confirmed “box drinkers” like us. We headed to the Rotta Vineyard because their prices are more reasonable and they are the oldest family owned vineyard in the area, founded in 1908. A wonderful lady was serving up wine and fun. Gail is a self-defined “storm of a bartender.” We worked our way through 11 “pours” tasting white, reds and desserts while visiting with other folks at the bar. We met the owner, Mike Guibbini, grandson of the original owner. Mike helped with the larger than expected Thursday afternoon crowd. We had no trouble selecting the cabernet for purchase.
While in Paso, we took a day-trip to Hearst Castle. Although Russell is not big into house tours, Hearst has enough features to impress even the most reluctant husband. Built when WRH was approaching 60, The Enchanted Hill is the culmination of a lifetime of travel and collecting. He and architect Julia Morgan spared no expense to get it right. The setting, multiple buildings and furnishings are all designed to enhance one another and create the desired atmosphere, party. I had read Marion Davies autobiography and knew of the glittering array of personalities to attend events during the 1920’s through 1940’s. Davies, an actress, was Hearst’s mistress and lady of the house. Mrs. Hearst was rarely at the castle, preferring her New York home. You have to wonder how this arrangement impacted Hearst’s relationship with his 5 sons.
One evening we enjoyed a concert at the Paso Robles city park. A large group gathered to picnic and listen to swing, complete with a Zoot-Suited singer. Many danced but most just enjoyed the wonderful music and whatever was in the cooler. It was a relaxing, if very warm evening.
Daytime temperatures are over 100 degrees in Paso in August, great reason to move on to the next town.
Crossing California
August 24, 2009
We are currently driving from Oakhurst to Paso Robles the width of California at the heart of the state. We left the Sierra Nevada and will arrive near the Pacific in the coastal Range. The terrain changes are drastic – mountains and forests to rocky slopes, through a major agricultural area east of I-5 on CA-41. Irrigation is the magic ingredient to turn desert into food. Where irrigation stops, the land is pretty bleak. West of I-5 begins the foothills of the Coastal Range, no agriculture or forests here, just scrub, short grasses and dirt. Water is a much politicized issue here. The folks in this central area want/need more water channeled from rivers of the north, primarily the Sacramento. The folks up north don’t like the consequences of depleting their water supply. One sign proclaims, “Congressionally Imposed Dust Bowl,” another, “No Water = No Jobs =Higher Food Costs for All.” The contrast between the “dust bowl” and the land west of it is stark. The irrigated land has people throughout green fields and trucks hauling full loads of vegetables. Industry is obvious. The previously irrigated property has no growth, movement, or evidence of people.
Moving west, small groups of trees are scattered across the rolling hillsides. Russell calls the color of these hills buckskin, accurate and creative. Ravines and rock outcroppings and dry creek beds begin with houses scattered along the road. At the end of all this bleak is a huge vineyard near the town of Shandon. There would be one vineyard after another all the way to the coast; we just didn’t know it yet. The power of water! In the county of San Luis Obispo, grape is King!
We are currently driving from Oakhurst to Paso Robles the width of California at the heart of the state. We left the Sierra Nevada and will arrive near the Pacific in the coastal Range. The terrain changes are drastic – mountains and forests to rocky slopes, through a major agricultural area east of I-5 on CA-41. Irrigation is the magic ingredient to turn desert into food. Where irrigation stops, the land is pretty bleak. West of I-5 begins the foothills of the Coastal Range, no agriculture or forests here, just scrub, short grasses and dirt. Water is a much politicized issue here. The folks in this central area want/need more water channeled from rivers of the north, primarily the Sacramento. The folks up north don’t like the consequences of depleting their water supply. One sign proclaims, “Congressionally Imposed Dust Bowl,” another, “No Water = No Jobs =Higher Food Costs for All.” The contrast between the “dust bowl” and the land west of it is stark. The irrigated land has people throughout green fields and trucks hauling full loads of vegetables. Industry is obvious. The previously irrigated property has no growth, movement, or evidence of people.
Moving west, small groups of trees are scattered across the rolling hillsides. Russell calls the color of these hills buckskin, accurate and creative. Ravines and rock outcroppings and dry creek beds begin with houses scattered along the road. At the end of all this bleak is a huge vineyard near the town of Shandon. There would be one vineyard after another all the way to the coast; we just didn’t know it yet. The power of water! In the county of San Luis Obispo, grape is King!
Yosemite, Mariposa County
August 20, 2009
Some of few remaining groves of Giant Sequoias are found in the Mariposa Gove at Yosemite’s south entrance. Where the Yosemite Valley is very user-friendly - big parking lots, direct roads, lots of lodging - the south is a more back-to-nature experience – find parking as best you can, catch the shuttle then start walking. There is a tour tram for bucks, but that is not for us.
We did get captured by Ranger John Jackson, former 7th grade science teacher, for the 2:00 “Ranger Stroll and Talk.” What a blessing! He provided the hands-on-experiences of every good teacher to create a lasting impression. Sequoia bark is weightless. A core wood shingle is equally so. The seeds and cones are very small. Yet these unsubstantial, unimpressive parts unite to create the oldest, most massive living being on earth. It’s a staggering contrast.
We were able to witness the benefits of fire, sequoias at 10 years of growth and The Grizzly Giant, at roughly 1800 years of age. The Grizzly is distinctive because a lightning strike killed the tree top, thereby stunting growth. But this same event forced growth outwards to create spectacular branches with diameters of 6 feet.
Ranger John’s tour taught us many life lessons and granted us 3 wishes. We should live long, grow younger, and return often. We need to resist change and destructive forces, but grow stronger if and when adversity does strike. Live long like the sequoia. Grow younger, as scientist have changed their method of aging the sequoia and made them younger than once thought. Resist destruction. The sequoia is fire and insect resistant, but must have fire for new trees to sprout. The sequoia is also resistant to man’s forces by having no real commercial use. When they fall, the giant breaks into many small sections, thus being unusable for lumber.
We returned to the Mariposa Grove with a greater understanding and sense of awe than we had before our first trip. Thanks go out to Ranger John Jackson.
We completely enjoyed our hike of the outer loop then the inner loop of the Mariposa. First, we arrived early enough to park in the grove! Second, we were able to talk about the types of trees and use the knowledge gained in our previous trip. Third – NO CROWD! We hardly saw a soul. What a nice day, and it wasn’t noon yet!
Fred, the Oakhurst information gentleman flatly stated, “If you don’t go to Glacier Point, you haven’t been to Yosemite.” I completely agree.
The views of Half Dome are breathtakingly in your face. With Russell’s binoculars, he found climbers on top! We could see waterfalls, both the Vernal and Nevada, peaks and valleys that were not at all visible from any point below. The two stops we made were well worth the extra miles to get there. Another bonus – no construction crews on the road on this particular Saturday!
Some of few remaining groves of Giant Sequoias are found in the Mariposa Gove at Yosemite’s south entrance. Where the Yosemite Valley is very user-friendly - big parking lots, direct roads, lots of lodging - the south is a more back-to-nature experience – find parking as best you can, catch the shuttle then start walking. There is a tour tram for bucks, but that is not for us.
We did get captured by Ranger John Jackson, former 7th grade science teacher, for the 2:00 “Ranger Stroll and Talk.” What a blessing! He provided the hands-on-experiences of every good teacher to create a lasting impression. Sequoia bark is weightless. A core wood shingle is equally so. The seeds and cones are very small. Yet these unsubstantial, unimpressive parts unite to create the oldest, most massive living being on earth. It’s a staggering contrast.
We were able to witness the benefits of fire, sequoias at 10 years of growth and The Grizzly Giant, at roughly 1800 years of age. The Grizzly is distinctive because a lightning strike killed the tree top, thereby stunting growth. But this same event forced growth outwards to create spectacular branches with diameters of 6 feet.
Ranger John’s tour taught us many life lessons and granted us 3 wishes. We should live long, grow younger, and return often. We need to resist change and destructive forces, but grow stronger if and when adversity does strike. Live long like the sequoia. Grow younger, as scientist have changed their method of aging the sequoia and made them younger than once thought. Resist destruction. The sequoia is fire and insect resistant, but must have fire for new trees to sprout. The sequoia is also resistant to man’s forces by having no real commercial use. When they fall, the giant breaks into many small sections, thus being unusable for lumber.
We returned to the Mariposa Grove with a greater understanding and sense of awe than we had before our first trip. Thanks go out to Ranger John Jackson.
We completely enjoyed our hike of the outer loop then the inner loop of the Mariposa. First, we arrived early enough to park in the grove! Second, we were able to talk about the types of trees and use the knowledge gained in our previous trip. Third – NO CROWD! We hardly saw a soul. What a nice day, and it wasn’t noon yet!
Fred, the Oakhurst information gentleman flatly stated, “If you don’t go to Glacier Point, you haven’t been to Yosemite.” I completely agree.
The views of Half Dome are breathtakingly in your face. With Russell’s binoculars, he found climbers on top! We could see waterfalls, both the Vernal and Nevada, peaks and valleys that were not at all visible from any point below. The two stops we made were well worth the extra miles to get there. Another bonus – no construction crews on the road on this particular Saturday!
Yosemite, Midpines, California
August 13, 2009
Our eventful drive from west to east took us to Mariposa Co. and the town of Midpines. We stayed at an up-hill KOA that was very pretty, but no AT&T was an issue for the whole week. The coolest thing about the park was our neighbor, the Taylor’s. License plates established the common ground of Texas, but a glass of wine led to the discovery that all 3 of the 4 of us were at UT, Russell and Mike even lived in the same apt. complex at the same time! Many commonalities were uncovered, and we hope to stay in touch.
But the trip was about Yosemite. We drove into the Valley, our bikes hitched. The drive itself is a 25 mile adventure, meandering next to the Merced River complete with single lane bridge to avoid the rock slide that wiped out the old road. The hike/bike path encompasses El Capitan, rivers, meadows, Yosemite Falls, and John Muir’s favorite place, Enchanted Isles. We also rode by some of the wonderful cottages built for workers. How do you get these digs? It was difficult to look up and ahead at the path simultaneously, but we managed. We stopped at one point to consult the map and got aid, along with an invitation to come visit, from a wonderful couple from the Czech Republic. Late summer is not the best time to visit Yosemite, dry rivers mean no waterfalls, but you can clearly see where they have been. We visited with a long-time visitor who thinks that late summer is perfect because you can river-float and enjoy the tranquility. There were many bikini-clad tourists who totally agree with this assessment.
Biking gave us the perfect overview of the park. The next day was all about the details. We took in the movie, museum, lodge, hikes off the beaten path and Bridal Falls. We even found the spot we’d read about where Teddy Roosevelt camped and was photographed with John Muir in a presidential trip through the west. One very cool bonus was an opportunity to view El Capitan climbers. A fellow climber was stationed on the road with a high-powered telescope zoomed in on 2 different sets. We found out that it typically takes 2-3 days to make the assent. I tried to imagine scaling 90 degrees while carrying enough food and drink for that period of time in addition to a bed roll and potty. NO WAY! You must have a permit to climb, but no requirements are needed for that permit, meaning that anyone may attempt the climb and run the risk of requiring a rescue. I don’t get it. Both days we enjoyed a picnic and the free shuttle bus.
Midpines is in the middle of the gold mining rush of history. There is a wonderful state museum that we passed by at least twice, and I’d be willing to bet that it is terrific. We drove to Oakhurst to check out the RV parks and take care of a few errands. Our trip back included one of those unexpected turns that Garmin sometimes provides. Triangle Road cuts cross country winding through farm and cattle country, and a hidden winery. Butterfly Winery is in the valley; Russell spotted it long before we saw the sign on the mountain road. The tasting room greeters are several friendly cats and dogs and hosted by a charming lady who is informative and gives a great pour. We spent a long time visiting with her and some other customers who happened in after we did.
We headed out for Oakhurst; confident that we knew the road since we had we had traveled the previous week. It was different when towing. The downhill grade was more white-knuckle than anticipated, but otherwise uneventful.
Our eventful drive from west to east took us to Mariposa Co. and the town of Midpines. We stayed at an up-hill KOA that was very pretty, but no AT&T was an issue for the whole week. The coolest thing about the park was our neighbor, the Taylor’s. License plates established the common ground of Texas, but a glass of wine led to the discovery that all 3 of the 4 of us were at UT, Russell and Mike even lived in the same apt. complex at the same time! Many commonalities were uncovered, and we hope to stay in touch.
But the trip was about Yosemite. We drove into the Valley, our bikes hitched. The drive itself is a 25 mile adventure, meandering next to the Merced River complete with single lane bridge to avoid the rock slide that wiped out the old road. The hike/bike path encompasses El Capitan, rivers, meadows, Yosemite Falls, and John Muir’s favorite place, Enchanted Isles. We also rode by some of the wonderful cottages built for workers. How do you get these digs? It was difficult to look up and ahead at the path simultaneously, but we managed. We stopped at one point to consult the map and got aid, along with an invitation to come visit, from a wonderful couple from the Czech Republic. Late summer is not the best time to visit Yosemite, dry rivers mean no waterfalls, but you can clearly see where they have been. We visited with a long-time visitor who thinks that late summer is perfect because you can river-float and enjoy the tranquility. There were many bikini-clad tourists who totally agree with this assessment.
Biking gave us the perfect overview of the park. The next day was all about the details. We took in the movie, museum, lodge, hikes off the beaten path and Bridal Falls. We even found the spot we’d read about where Teddy Roosevelt camped and was photographed with John Muir in a presidential trip through the west. One very cool bonus was an opportunity to view El Capitan climbers. A fellow climber was stationed on the road with a high-powered telescope zoomed in on 2 different sets. We found out that it typically takes 2-3 days to make the assent. I tried to imagine scaling 90 degrees while carrying enough food and drink for that period of time in addition to a bed roll and potty. NO WAY! You must have a permit to climb, but no requirements are needed for that permit, meaning that anyone may attempt the climb and run the risk of requiring a rescue. I don’t get it. Both days we enjoyed a picnic and the free shuttle bus.
Midpines is in the middle of the gold mining rush of history. There is a wonderful state museum that we passed by at least twice, and I’d be willing to bet that it is terrific. We drove to Oakhurst to check out the RV parks and take care of a few errands. Our trip back included one of those unexpected turns that Garmin sometimes provides. Triangle Road cuts cross country winding through farm and cattle country, and a hidden winery. Butterfly Winery is in the valley; Russell spotted it long before we saw the sign on the mountain road. The tasting room greeters are several friendly cats and dogs and hosted by a charming lady who is informative and gives a great pour. We spent a long time visiting with her and some other customers who happened in after we did.
We headed out for Oakhurst; confident that we knew the road since we had we had traveled the previous week. It was different when towing. The downhill grade was more white-knuckle than anticipated, but otherwise uneventful.
Lake Tahoe
August 8, 2009
Several events make the South Lake Tahoe experience memorable, beginning with our campsite. The Tahoe Valley Campgrounds are spectacular with pines crowding one another, and campers. The beautiful site we were given was nestled between several pines at the mouth, but wide, sandy openness behind. It took much help and encouragement to achieve just the right angle to back into the narrow opening without damage to trailer, trees or other campers. Once in, we were secluded and happy, with only the drive out to dread. The next memory was fast on heels of arrival when I hit my head on the kingpin. I’ve done this before, but never with the resulting blood. A few stitches at a local urgent care took care of the problem, but our bike riding days were postponed a bit. However, we hiked every evening in the cool pine scented mountains.
The campground is on the local trolley route. We hopped on to take the ride up the west side of the lake. We rode along the lake through villages and tourist parks past Emerald Bay. The drive was spectacular and winding enough to make the trolley a great idea. We rode it later in the week to hike down to the shore at Emerald Bay where I toured the Nordic summer home built in the 1920’s. We took the north path again when we rode bikes through forest and along shore line.
Driving east from the campground heads to Lake Tahoe, Nevada and casinos. I struck it rich with a payout of 10X winnings, too bad I had only bet a dollar! But I know a good take when I see one and quit. There is also a very good NPS exhibit for Lake Tahoe near the casinos. The exhibit helps you appreciate the many forces that formed the oldest lake in the USA, second only to Crater Lake in depth. We learned that Tahoe is so deep; it’s below Carson City at the base of the mountains. We had taken the drive straight down to Carson City and could appreciate the distance. The Comstock Silver miners were responsible for the loss of trees on the Nevada side of the lake. Driving from the lush mountainous greens and blues of Tahoe to the flat tans of Carson City is a stark contrast that takes just half an hour. You know you are in the desert. We talked about visiting the Ponderosa and Virginia City northeast of Carson City, but decided to wait for another time.
We consulted the internet, the California map and camp office personnel to determine the widest, straightest route possible from SLT to Midpines on the east side of Yosemite. There just was no good route for a rig our size, but we did determine the best of the bunch. We set out southwest and downhill. We wound through the high country of the Sierra Nevada Range where tall mountains and deep ravines are covered in massive evergreens.
Mountains eventually soften to more rolling hillsides with brown grasses of late summer. Towns are more frequent and more populated. But the road heads up once again and the vegetation and terrain progression is reversed. Colors from the 108-count box of Crayola come at you at every turn. Colors with names like sienna, galena, sage, slate, umber are scattered across the mountains.
Two amazing events occurred on CA 49, both caused by Russell’s attention to detail. At the turn off to Miraposa, the highway patrol was set up for radar. We stopped to ask the best way to go. He said CA49 was definitely the most direct and except for 1 cliff-hugging, blind hairpin turn, no worse or better than the other options. He gave us a few tips and off we went.
After several “I wonder if that was it?” queries, we knew for a fact when we were looking at the spot-dead ahead. There was a wide shoulder just before the boulder/turn, so Russell pulled over enough to allow 2 motorcycles to go first. They entered the curve just as a 1-ton truck came around towing a boat. The cyclists had to swerve to give him room, a maneuver we could not have managed! Those bikers were clinging to the edge of the road and cliff as that trucker did all he could to hug the monolith on the inside curve. We would have been toast! With breath held, Russell edged back on the road and slowly, uneventfully made the blind turn, taking pretty much the entire 2 lanes. Breathing once again on the other side, Russell glanced in the side-rear mirror to see how much traffic we had backed up. And there was our radar cop! He followed us for a way, then turned back at the next opportunity.
He was either very nice, or getting a jump on the carnage!
NEXT TIME: See north Lake Tahoe; go from Tahoe to Yosemite through Nevada.
Several events make the South Lake Tahoe experience memorable, beginning with our campsite. The Tahoe Valley Campgrounds are spectacular with pines crowding one another, and campers. The beautiful site we were given was nestled between several pines at the mouth, but wide, sandy openness behind. It took much help and encouragement to achieve just the right angle to back into the narrow opening without damage to trailer, trees or other campers. Once in, we were secluded and happy, with only the drive out to dread. The next memory was fast on heels of arrival when I hit my head on the kingpin. I’ve done this before, but never with the resulting blood. A few stitches at a local urgent care took care of the problem, but our bike riding days were postponed a bit. However, we hiked every evening in the cool pine scented mountains.
The campground is on the local trolley route. We hopped on to take the ride up the west side of the lake. We rode along the lake through villages and tourist parks past Emerald Bay. The drive was spectacular and winding enough to make the trolley a great idea. We rode it later in the week to hike down to the shore at Emerald Bay where I toured the Nordic summer home built in the 1920’s. We took the north path again when we rode bikes through forest and along shore line.
Driving east from the campground heads to Lake Tahoe, Nevada and casinos. I struck it rich with a payout of 10X winnings, too bad I had only bet a dollar! But I know a good take when I see one and quit. There is also a very good NPS exhibit for Lake Tahoe near the casinos. The exhibit helps you appreciate the many forces that formed the oldest lake in the USA, second only to Crater Lake in depth. We learned that Tahoe is so deep; it’s below Carson City at the base of the mountains. We had taken the drive straight down to Carson City and could appreciate the distance. The Comstock Silver miners were responsible for the loss of trees on the Nevada side of the lake. Driving from the lush mountainous greens and blues of Tahoe to the flat tans of Carson City is a stark contrast that takes just half an hour. You know you are in the desert. We talked about visiting the Ponderosa and Virginia City northeast of Carson City, but decided to wait for another time.
We consulted the internet, the California map and camp office personnel to determine the widest, straightest route possible from SLT to Midpines on the east side of Yosemite. There just was no good route for a rig our size, but we did determine the best of the bunch. We set out southwest and downhill. We wound through the high country of the Sierra Nevada Range where tall mountains and deep ravines are covered in massive evergreens.
Mountains eventually soften to more rolling hillsides with brown grasses of late summer. Towns are more frequent and more populated. But the road heads up once again and the vegetation and terrain progression is reversed. Colors from the 108-count box of Crayola come at you at every turn. Colors with names like sienna, galena, sage, slate, umber are scattered across the mountains.
Two amazing events occurred on CA 49, both caused by Russell’s attention to detail. At the turn off to Miraposa, the highway patrol was set up for radar. We stopped to ask the best way to go. He said CA49 was definitely the most direct and except for 1 cliff-hugging, blind hairpin turn, no worse or better than the other options. He gave us a few tips and off we went.
After several “I wonder if that was it?” queries, we knew for a fact when we were looking at the spot-dead ahead. There was a wide shoulder just before the boulder/turn, so Russell pulled over enough to allow 2 motorcycles to go first. They entered the curve just as a 1-ton truck came around towing a boat. The cyclists had to swerve to give him room, a maneuver we could not have managed! Those bikers were clinging to the edge of the road and cliff as that trucker did all he could to hug the monolith on the inside curve. We would have been toast! With breath held, Russell edged back on the road and slowly, uneventfully made the blind turn, taking pretty much the entire 2 lanes. Breathing once again on the other side, Russell glanced in the side-rear mirror to see how much traffic we had backed up. And there was our radar cop! He followed us for a way, then turned back at the next opportunity.
He was either very nice, or getting a jump on the carnage!
NEXT TIME: See north Lake Tahoe; go from Tahoe to Yosemite through Nevada.
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