Sunday, October 4, 2009

Bryce Canyon, Utah




April 26, 2009

We had planned a trip to Bryce 25 years ago, but ran out of time. So this week-long stop was long overdue, and well worth the wait. Fairyland is overused in describing Bryce for a good reason. You can see that the top layer of limestone that you are standing on is exactly the same as the tops of the formations. Colors have “washed” down to the base of these hoodoos and walls from white to pink to red. Hoodoos are eerie formations of spires, fins, horseshoes and arches. The less eroded areas form mazes of walls.

We hiked the most popular loop, down Queen’s Garden and back up the Navaho Wall Trail. The Queen’s Garden trail descends through the formations that make Bryce famous. Once at the bottom you are walking in a thinly-treed forest along a creek. These pines seemed miniature from above, or were hidden altogether, shade the walkway, a beautiful reprieve which is much needed for the Navaho hike out. You walk through towering walls that but touch at the top-at tourist level-focusing what light that does filter through into a rectangular sundial for those with the ability to read it. The assent is steeply carved into a wall, switch backs twisting you up the nearly vertical wall. I had to stop at the end of every full loop. As tiring as it was, I was somewhat disappointed to come out of the time travel to arrive back in the land of tourists and cars. In the trail you can imagine the geologic and environmental forces that shaped this magic and feel the ancients who peopled these canyons.

We also enjoyed Red Rock Canyon and hiked through this smaller state park. Snow was a nice bonus.

We actually stayed near Red Rock Canyon at a very small park. Being new to travel, we were nervous about the road conditions getting deeper into Bryce. This fear turned out to be well-founded. There are two narrow, low red rock arches over the roadway – very picturesque! However at just over 13 feet tall, a trip through that passage would be a little daunting. I’m sure we would have made it, creeping and sweating the whole way. The more popular and closer RV Park is Ruby’s. This complex includes the RV park, a hotel, restaurant and store. Many services, like a free shuttle, are available later in the season. We did spend a lot of time at the hotel because of their wifi service. As I write this, we probably have the confidence to make our way into Ruby’s on another trip.

NEXT TIME: Take UT 12 east to Moab, Capital Dome, Arches and the other canyon lands. Also revisit Grand Canyon, North Rim, and Zion.

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